Climber Denis Urubko, his children, photo

Denis Urubko is an outstanding high-altitude mountaineer, winner of many international awards, conqueror of all 14 eight-thousandths (the world's top peaks) without the use of oxygen, author of books and documentaries.

The road to success

Urubko Denis Viktorovich (born in 1973) spent his childhood in the city of Nevinnomyssk, Stavropol Territory. His family moved to Sakhalin due to the allergic asthma developing in the future climber when he was 14 years old. In a new place, Denis traveled extensively in the forests, receiving an invaluable experience in the field life. Glowing with mountaineering in 1990, he conquered the highest point of Sakhalin with a height of 1609 m.

Urubko alone went to the Altai Mountains at the age of 18, where he climbed the Eastern Belukha, whose height is more than 4,5 thousand meters. While studying at the Vladivostok Institute of Arts, young Denis worked in parallel in the city mountaineering club and successfully coped with the standards for obtaining ranks. In February 1992, he and his friend ascended to the Key Hill (4750 m) in Kamchatka.

Having gone to work as an assistant in the mountain ascents to the Pamir-Altai, Denis Urubko conquered his first five-thousandths - Aklyubek (5125 m). In 1993, he moved to Alma-Ata at the invitation of the senior coach of the Central Army Sports Club, took Kazakhstani citizenship and passed military service. Since 2001, he studied in absentia at the Faculty of Journalism at the local university.

From 1993 to 2014, Denis made a large number of outstanding expeditions around the world, including climbing in the mountains of the Pamirs, Tien Shan, Karakorum and the Himalayas.

In 2013, Denis moved to Ryazan and accepted Russian citizenship. In February 2015, with the help of his friends - famous mountaineers, he was able to obtain Polish citizenship. Currently, Urubko spends a lot of time in Italy, and also often trains in the South of Poland and in Baskonia.

Records and achievements

In 1999, Denis Urubko participated in the annual races dedicated to the memory of the famous Anatoly Bukreev. He overcame the distance and reached the summit at a height of 3,970 m in a record time - 1 hour and 15 minutes.

At the competitions on the speed of the ascent to the Khan-Tengri mountain in 2000, he got from the main camp, located at an altitude of 4000 m, to the summit (7010 m) in 7 hours 40 minutes.

In 2001, Denis for two hours ahead of the record holder Anatoly Bukreev on the climb to the peak of the mountain Gasherbrum (8035 m) from the base camp (5800 m). He coped with the task in 7.5 hours.

Urubko showed a stunning result in the annual races on the famous Elbrus in 2006. To get to the Western peak (5642 m), starting from Azau (2400 m), it took him less than 4 hours.

In 2009, he was recognized as the eighth person in the world, conquered all the 14 main peaks of the world (with a height of more than 8000 m) without the use of oxygen devices.

The Person of the Mountaineer

• A large number of ascents Denis Urubko made in conjunction with the famous Italian mountain climber Simone Moreau. Together they realized projects and dreams, becoming the first in conquering mountain peaks. Simone speaks of Denis as a man open and direct, considering him an excellent partner.

• Urubko periodically holds spiritual meetings in different cities of Russia and the world, where he gladly shares his experience and stories of ascents with fans of mountains and sports tourism. His charisma and oratorical talent produce a great impression on listeners, so his lectures are charged with energy and a desire to strive for new achievements.

• Denis has his own philosophical understanding of mountaineering. In his youth he perceived the conquest of mountain peaks as an adventure, the discovery of the world around with its diversity. Later it was time for the sport, when he explored his own possibilities in the mountains. Currently, Urubko considers mountain climbing as an art in which the qualities of the human soul and creativity are learned.

• Denis is a person not indifferent to other people's troubles, that's why he participated in many rescue operations: he immediately dropped from the top of the Polish mountaineers Anna Chervinsk and Marcin Kachkan, the Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafay, the Russian Boris Korshunov.

Bibliography

Fortunately, Denis Urubko is an alpinist, who also has a literary talent. He independently describes his ascents and shares his plans for the future in his blog. In addition, he is the author of numerous articles and a number of books on mountaineering, including "Walks in the vertical", "Absurd Everest", "Chasing the Snow Leopard."

A family

The climber manages to devote time and energy not only to conquering peaks, but also to the family. Denis is married to Olga Igorevna Kvashnina, who supports her husband in undertakings, not only in word, but also in deed. The spouse helps to solve questions on the publication and distribution of his books. Although Olga is not easy to let Denis go on extreme trips, she realizes that without them he will lose the bright colors of his life.

Another life priority, which Denis Urubko mentions in his interviews, is children. He is the father of three daughters (Anna, Maria and Alexandra) and two sons (Stepan and Zakhar).

Denis Urubko is a man of tremendous will and energy, admiring. He is sincerely passionate about his business, uses all the potential and comes out victor even from the most difficult situations!