Installing the boiler yourself

The popularity of electric boilers increases every year. If someone in an apartment or house still does not have such a wonderful household appliance, it's only a matter of time. In today's article, we will consider in detail how to install a water heater, but before that, perhaps, we note its main advantages.

Residents of apartments in high-rise buildings are well aware that very often hot water from centralized systems is a luxury. For example, in the warm season, when the CHP is stopped for routine maintenance, it may be absent for months. Well, to daily trips during the minimum draw-down (daytime working days), many are already used to. Also, it is not a secret that special softening additives are introduced into the water heated at the CHP, so the usefulness of such a "soup" is highly doubtful. And, of course, a constant increase in tariffs creates an additional burden on the family budget. Installation of the boiler allows solving all these problems.

In addition, there are a number of rather specific advantages. Among them, the following service life of the electrical device exceeds the operating time of the gas column (there is no wear of the burner); The device is able to work even on the basis of gravity water supply system, characteristic for rural houses; Installation of the boiler can be carried out independently (unlike gas varieties); High fire and electrical safety is easily achievable by connecting the RCD.

So, the water heater was bought. The boiler installation begins with the location. It is recommended to place it near the main points of the draw-off (bathroom). Otherwise, opening the tap, you have to drain some of the cold water from the pipes, waiting for it to go hot, which is wasteful. Household models designed for wall mounting are installed in such a way that the outlets are above the level of the water distribution line - this will allow the system to operate at minimum cold water pressure. Note that the installation of water heaters is fairly simple and, if everything is done accurately, there are no difficulties.

Take a pencil, apply the boiler to the wall, set the desired height and through one of the mounting holes mark the point. Next, measure the distance between the holes on the mounting plate of the tank and use the building level to obtain the second point. Now you need to decide how exactly the device will be attached to the brick or concrete wall. You can purchase hooks (crutches) with long plastic dowels with a diameter of 10-12 mm or, alternatively, powerful anchor bolts. The latter are more reliable, but the installation is more difficult, since you have to twist the nuts. Drill the holes, mount the fasteners and fix the tank.

Further installation of the boiler is to connect the pipeline. By the way, if the power cord is not provided, then, taking into account the power consumption, prepare it. It is recommended to power the boiler through the machine. Connection and routing of pipes depends on the existing system and is solved on site (plastic, metal plastic, metal).

Let us dwell on two important points:

- According to the diagram in the manual, a safety valve should be connected . It is necessary to protect the tank from damage, relieving excess pressure: if it is heated excessively, expanding water can rupture the housing. On the discharge nozzle, put the tube on and put it in a prepared container (otherwise, when the pressure is released, a part of the water will pour directly to the floor).

- On the supply of cold water, you can install a filter flask with crystals of phosphate salts. Dissolving, they prevent the formation of scale on the heating element. Practice shows that, despite the need for periodic revision of the boiler, over 70% of owners ignore this recommendation, and when the tank is out of commission, they simply change it to a new one. Phosphate filter increases the total operating time in this mode.