Skirt modeling: straight, with pleats, with a smell. Modeling skirts of different styles

The skirt is an integral part of the clothes of the women's wardrobe. And her mood can be as changeable as the fair sex themselves. It is strict and restrained, it is cheerful and airy, sometimes secretive, then, on the contrary, it is too frank, but it makes the female image so gentle and refined. In this article, we will talk about how the skirt is made during the initial stages of sewing.

The construction of a pattern of any style of the skirt begins with the design of the main drawing, which is the basis for the development of new models with all shaped lines, assemblies, folds, seams and cuts. The main pattern for the measurements taken from the figure is constructed: the waist, hips, thigh height to the waist. The length of the skirt in this case does not play an important role, here the main thing is to achieve an ideal planting of the top of the product in the figure.

Building the basic pattern

In order to develop the main drawing on which the skirt is modeled, a Whatman, a piece of wallpaper or a dense building film, a marker, a long ruler or a centimeter tape, scissors and the above measures will be needed. The pattern is based on a vertical strip equal to the length of the article from the waist up to the bottom. Simulation of the skirt can be made only after making the main drawing. The product made in the basic pattern is actually the most common straight skirt, which is simple enough to build and sew yourself.

Construction of the front panel

So, to build the pattern of the base on the canvas (paper, wallpaper or oilcloth), draw a vertical line, which will be the line of the middle of the transfer. It marks two points, denoting the waist and hip level. Further from these marks, one-fourth of the measures are laid aside, and these points are joined by a smooth line, forming a lateral seam. In conclusion, it only remains to deepen the upper cut by 1.5 cm. To do this, on the vertical line from the point indicating the level of the waist, the indicated distance recedes downward and smoothly connects the center of the cloth with the lateral line.

Building a back skirt of a skirt

The process of constructing a part for the rear panel is practically the same. Skirt modeling also begins with a vertical line and the notation of hip height and waist level. However, it should be noted that to ¼ of the value of the measure add 1-1.5 cm for free fit. However, if the fabric is stretchy and stretches well, you can not do this. Another important nuance: the back panel is almost always made of two parts. At the top form a clasp for buttons or zippers, and below make a cut for a free step.

Features of the design of the recesses at the waist

In order for the product to sit perfectly on the figure and emphasize all the smooth curves and features of the female mill, it is necessary to properly shape the tapped darts. And, of course, modeling and designing skirts for different types of figures has its own characteristics.

• For a standard figure, they are made only on the back panel of the product, leaving the front part completely flat.
• For women with a strongly protruding abdomen, the darts are covered approximately 1.5 cm in each, if necessary they are made two at each other. Otherwise, the skirt will bust and rise up the stomach, gathering almost under the breast.
• If the figure with a flat belly and too thin waist, then darts on the front panel are made as close to the side seams as possible, and on the back part they are evenly placed relative to the upper cut of the panel.

How to sew a pencil skirt

In fact, the modeling of the skirt straight from the shape of the "pencil" differs by only one minor element: the bevel of the side seams to the bottom of the product. It is this detail that gives the figure an original tight silhouette, which is very popular among women and raises enthusiastic views of men. It would seem that there is a special - a skirt up to the middle of the knee. However, the fact that it repeats the bends of the body makes it simply amazing.

As already mentioned, the modeling of the pencil skirt is performed on the basis of a direct model. To do this, from the hip line to the bottom of the product, both webs on two sides are narrowed by about 5-6 cm. At the back, a sufficiently high incision should be made to prevent the product from hindering movements.

Coquette - original decor

Any skirt will look more attractive if you decorate it with such a decorative detail as a coquette. With such a simple element, you can solve several problems at once:

• Decorate the product;
• Hide bulging belly;
• Using different fabrics, sew a skirt from the remaining flaps.

So, how do the modeling of a straight skirt on a yoke? First of all, they draw the basic pattern. Next, a sketch of a coquette is made directly from the drawing. It can be done vtachnoy, but it is possible waybill. The invoice is usually made with a sharp corner, which is decorated with buttons or pebbles. It is such a coquette that is able to hide a slightly bulging tummy, but it should be noted that it should be about 25-30 cm from the waist line. The main drawing is cut along the drawn line and two parts are obtained. When cutting skirts with vtachnoy coquette make an increase for the seam, and with the overlaid part of the drawing combine and cut out the whole cloth and separately the elements of the coquette. In this case, it is not at all necessary for the decorative part to make hocks. You can simply cut them on the template and combine the details, making a single piece of the individual elements.

Modeling a skirt with folds

If you make a skirt on a coquette, then folds will be a perfect addition to this model. This is ideal for a playful way. To develop a pattern of such a skirt, you should also first make a basic drawing, draw a coquette, and after the size of the bottom of the pattern increase by the width of the folded folds. Such a model can be done without a cut-off yoke, simply by adjusting the bend of the folds about 15-20 cm from the waist line.

In general, modeling skirts of different styles is a very fascinating and productive exercise, because by experiments you can create beautiful models. For example, the model is a year, the template of which is also developed on the basis of a straight skirt. This style is ideal for sewing evening dresses. In order to make a pattern for such a product, the skirts of the skirts in the main drawing are divided into the desired number of wedges, having previously designated a line from which the flare of each of them will go. After, depending on the desired fluffiness of the skirt's bottom, note the degree of the flare and modify each of the details, adding the necessary part to the pattern. Thus, as a result, the workpiece is obtained, resembling the skirt of a straight cut from above, and from the bottom - a semicircle or a trapezoid.

Modeling a skirt with an odor

One of the most successful models of skirts for the beach season is a model with a smell that does not need to be worn over the head or legs. It also produces a skirt-based skirt. The pattern is based on three measures, but for this model make a double front panel, which is wrapped around the waist and buttoned with just one button or tied with a belt.

Tulip skirt

Perhaps, one of the most popular models today is a skirt-tulip. It is built by cutting the main pattern to the bottom of the skirt and moving the elements 5-6 cm apart. Thus, the wrinkles on the waist are obtained, which come to naught to the bottom. It is worth noting that when cutting patterns on elements and adding fabric for protection, the lines of the bottom and waist will become an arc, and it is in this form that you need to cut out the part from the fabric. In this case, you must strictly follow the share thread. Modeling skirts of different styles is almost always done by dividing the main drawing into elements. It should also be taken into account that the incline slope affects the appearance of the folds, which can be directed to the side cuts or to the center.

Skirt with embroidered seams

It is interesting enough to look models with reliefs, detached decorative seam. To create such a skirt right on the drawing, draw lines that cut the template. For example, it can be straight, continuing darts, or just inserts on the sides. Quite often such elements are made from contrasting tissue. This skirt modeling is considered the easiest. Using the method by which to construct the pattern of the tulip skirt, it is easy to make interesting draperies on the product. In this case, you can cut the parts from either side, directing the drapery folds either to the side seams, or to the center, or to the waist line.

Fantasy there is no limit

Modeling a skirt on a coquette can also be based on the method used in building a skirt-tulip. For example, draped can be a flirt or the main canvas. Also interesting are skirts with high waist. Usually they are decorated with a thin girdle.

In conclusion, it should be said that the properly selected skirt style can emphasize all the dignity of the female figure and hide possible shortcomings. So, for example, a pencil skirt is ideal for women with wide hips, but if the problem is that there is not enough volume in this part of the body, then the "tulip" model will be the ideal solution. The skirt in a fold will harmoniously look on the thin, but the full ladies will appreciate the planting of the product with relief seams and false coquette.

Features of sewing different models

Important is the choice of fabric for the skirt, because thanks to properly selected material, the product will look just perfect. So, for example, for a skirt-tulip fabric, well keeping the form, will perfectly approach, and here the model with a smell will harmoniously look from thin and soft fabrics. A pencil skirt is best sewed from a costume cloth or a cottage, and for draperies choose a pliable fabric that fits well in the folds.

From the above, it can be concluded that in order to create an original style, you should learn how to make skirt modeling on the basis of a straight line. And then you can create excellent products with original cut parts. However, the fantasy here is also important, because it was thanks to her that famous and popular skirt models were created. And although there is nothing newer than the well-forgotten old, thanks to a combination of different modeling techniques, you can easily create a stunning outfit.