How to sew a hood: a pattern and detailed instructions. How to make a pattern of a collar-hood

Modern fashion offers a huge number of different types of clothing. Many models are equipped with decorative or high-functional collars and hoods. Most needlewomen who have a sewing machine would like to try to refine their clothes with such a nice detail. However, not everyone knows how to sew a hood. The pattern seems very complicated, and the work is almost impossible. In reality, this is not so - we will try to help with this issue in this article.

Pattern of a collar-hood

Most models are a continuation of the top of the product. Thus, you can sew any hood, a pattern of fur, knitwear, leather or any other material is built approximately the same. The main difference will always be in the allowances for the seams and the depth of the product. The pattern of the hood-collar will differ in shape and volume. With the size of everything is clear: there are large, medium, small and purely decorative mini details of the top of the clothes. But in form there is a huge number of variations of the hood: suitable features of the product are selected in accordance with the model and style of clothing. The main rule when cutting a hood-collar is that the neck, as well as the sections of the shelf, will coincide with the fitting line. We will consider the simplest version, having mastered which it will be easy enough to modify it for any style and fabric.

Pattern building: Beginning

In order to draw the correct scheme, you need to prepare a sharply sharpened, but soft pencil, eraser, ruler and paper-graph paper. Instead of a special, already outlined basis, you can take the remains of wallpaper or newspaper, but you will need to monitor the correctness of the construction and evenness of all drawings. By the way, the pattern of a child's hood does not differ from an adult in any way, so you can use the same construction scheme:

1. Mark the point "O" and build from it a right angle.
2. To find the correct position where the hood will be stuck in the neck, from the obtained point "O" it is necessary to lay a section "O-KO". It will be equal to four or five centimeters - this value directly depends on the rise of the hood itself. For full or stooping people it is worth taking five centimeters.

The beginning is laid, at the next stage of creating a pattern you need to take into account the model of clothing.

We improve the fitting of the part

The pattern of the fur hood will require much less effort. Shaggy fabrics look good in voluminous products and do not require special bends. However, in our universal pattern we will consider the creation of a tap: from the "KO" point obtained in the previous stage, it is necessary to postpone the value that will be in the interval between zero and one centimeter. It is this figure that will show whether there is a tap in the hood in the center near the neck. For effective head circumflex, such a diversion is best done. At the end of the segment we put the point "K".

Further construction of the hood

From the obtained point "K" we make a notch on the horizontal line, which comes from the point "O". This will be the "K1" point. To make such a mark on the stitching line, you need to use a radius that is equal to the maximum width of the hood. To do this, you need to measure the length of the neck on the main drawing of the product or on the ready clothes to which the new part is sewn.

Explanation of this formula:

• The width of the hood is equal to the sum of the lengths of the throat along the back + the same index for the front + tumbling solution + Ppos.
• Typically, the solution of the "dart" element has a value of one and a half centimeters to three.
• Ppos (landing allowance - a constant value for all sizes) is from 5 mm to one centimeter.

Points K1 and K2

When a hood is created, the pattern should be as simple as possible, but clear. If the first attempt is successful, you can transfer the drawing to an old oilcloth or a piece of non-crumbling cloth to use it in the future. We continue our work:

• It is necessary to draw a line between the points "K" and "K1". From the obtained segment it is necessary to lay the line "К-К2". It will be equal to the length of the neck already calculated + the sum of the Ppos with the tumbling solution divided by two.
• From the new point "K2" we build a perpendicular going up to the line "KK1", where it is necessary to put one or one and a half centimeters and put a new mark "K21".
• The stitching line will pass through the "K", "K21" and "K1" marks.
• On the perpendicular, which has a base at the point "K2", you need to postpone the length of the future dart. Usually its length is in the range between eight and twelve centimeters. From the point "K21" to the right and left measure on half of the solution of our dart. This is a fairly simple, but necessary, moment, very important for further cutting.

Decoration of the sides of the darts

Recall that the design of a fur hood may not have any additional lines of fit. But darts will still be useful both for sock and for construction. To arrange everything correctly, you need to know several indicators, among which:

1. The height of the hood is a segment of "KO" and "K3". It will be equal to Bk + one to five centimeters and equal to Vgol + one to five centimeters. Decoding the formula: Bk is the height of the hood, Vgol is the height of the head.
2. From the "K3" to the right, you need to postpone a segment equal to the following indicator: Spread the goblet by three, add five to nine centimeters and mark "K4". The bullet in this formula is the girth of the head.
3. From the mark "K3" you need to hold the bisector in the direction to the right and down, it will be equal to three and a half to six centimeters. In the received point we put the mark "К31".
4. From the "K4" perpendicular, in the direction down, measure the segment to 0-2 centimeters and get the mark "K41".

Design of future sections

Before you sew a hood, you need to build a few more lines in the drawing. The occipital and upper sections of this model must pass through the marks "K41", "K31" and "K". In turn, the front edge needs to be drawn using a smooth line that will connect the marks "K1" and "K41". Next comes the crucial time for cutting the product: you need not forget to add allowances to the future seams and do not accidentally cut the space inside the darts. They are always stitched, just folding the fabric in half - nothing you do not need to cut! It is necessary to scribble using the same threads, with which the entire product is sewn, and the seam and needle are selected depending on the type of fabric. If you choose a material that will not pour on the edges, you can sew a hood with seams out. Such models will look good on teenage clothes and jackets for guys.

Another form of hood

There is a huge number of kinds of such parts. Some will look good on any model of clothes, others are suitable only for sports suits and jacket-jackets. The pattern of the hood-collar, which we examined, is considered universal, suitable for children's things, fur products and knitwear. But there are also other models, we will study some of them.

A hood-helmet. The peculiarity of this model will consist in the cut of its front part. It is constructed in an unusual way, based on the purpose of this part. The hood-helmet must protect the face from any bad weather and a sharp wind. To construct this model, a special slope will be created in front, which identifies this type of upper part. The total number of darts that make up the neckline can differ in different ways. But those that we built above will be required. The design abilities in this model can be shown in the design of the upper cut or the front part.

Hood for female coat

Since the volume of the classical model used for stylish women's clothes is large enough, it can be used for sewing in large coats and down jackets. Each wardrobe will come in handy with such a hood. Its pattern is built on the neckline of the product. The main charm of such a drawing is that the shape of the sewing line of the part itself into the neck and the main line of the neckline will pass along one line. For the competent and rapid construction of such a hood you will need ready-made curves of the backrest and transfer of the future product. The tuck of the shoulder cut must be transferred to the neck, and both curves are combined along the line of the shoulder slices.

It does not matter what kind of hood the needlewoman liked, a little patience and basic knowledge of building drawings will help create really unique models of clothes. Also, with the help of our recommendations, you can decorate a coat or jacket that has collar. Children and men like hooded helmets that will emphasize their inner strength and at the same time reliably protect the neck and face from wind and snow. Simple models of this part we have shown in the photographs. Remembering the darts and the line of fit, you can build a pattern of absolutely any hood for one or two hours without nerves and haste.