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What is pona in Russian culture?

Fashionable stylists and simple sewing enthusiasts are always interested in the history of the appearance of various costumes, dresses, etc. And it's no accident, it's been noticed for a long time that after a certain period of time the fashion repeats itself. This applies to both women's and men's clothing and footwear. Among Russian designers, it is customary to include in their collections elements of the costumes of ancestors, in particular the ancient Slavs. One such outfit is poneva.

general description

Many lovers of fashionable clothes do not even suspect what poneva is. And this outfit is a three-dimensional woolen skirt that was worn by married ladies before. Often this skirt was blue in a large cage, and its lower part was always beautifully decorated. In general, this element of clothing was popular in the southern regions of Russia and some regions of Belarus.

Tradition of wearing

To understand what pona is, you need to delve a little into the history of wearing it. The women at that time were wearing ponevu when they got married. Together with the feather dressed kitschka (a kind of ancient female headdress), as well as special details of breast and shoulder clothing.

In addition to the married, they dressed in the poneva and those girls who have reached puberty. This peculiar tradition even had its name - the rite of adulthood. Interestingly, after dressing the ponies about the girl, you could put it this way: "I took off my shirt." It was meant that the place of the children's shirt was now occupied by an adult apparel. If the girl is wearing a podeva, then it means that it can already be wooed. But most of the poneva - this is clothing that was intended for married women of the fair sex. Moreover, this skirt was compared with "female bondage" in the sense that every woman must go her way - the birth of children for the continuation of the family.

Rite for the girls

According to the descriptions of historians and ethnographers in Russia, young girls under the age of 16 did not wear separate skirts. Their usual attire was a shirt, which was girdled with a belt of wool. And when the time came to dress in adult things, then they performed a whole rite. The girl stood on the bench and walked along it back and forth. At this time, her mother followed her, holding open the poo in her hands, and persuaded her to "jump in". At first the girl strictly refused, but then jumped into the podevu. At that time, every girl already knew in advance how poneva looks and what she symbolizes. After all, dressing ponevu was considered to make it clear to all unmarried guys that you can send matchmakers to this girl. And on the Russian land in antiquity, not a single young woman refused to marry.

Appearance

What is poneva from the position of cutting and sewing? Its main difference from the standard skirt is that traditionally for the creation of ponevy were arranged three or more pieces of tissue. Usually, women will be dressed over their shirt, wrapped around their waists and fixed with a cord. In some regions, the pestilence was not at the waist, but below it or higher, depending on the fashion trend. In front of this skirt, a beautifully embroidered apron was also worn.

If you ask yourself what is poneva from the point of view of the composition, then the fabric for its manufacture includes hemp or nettles, as well as woolen ducks. Some proprietresses of this special skirt preferred that there should also be a linen lining.

Regional differences

Up to now, all the elements of the Russian folk costume have survived , the pestilence in which plays an important role. But it is noteworthy that in different Russian regions the ponies differed in color, style and manner of wearing.

As for the coloring, there are a lot of options. Even each village could boast of its ornamentation or a special color scheme. The main type is a dark blue poneva with a checkered pattern. In some places black ponevs were more often found in a cage, and in the territory of the Ryazan province women wore red striped skirts or blue smooth ones. Purely red color was used in the Voronezh and Tula provinces.

In the cut, special women's skirts can be divided into the following: a swinging swish, with firmware, blind, open front or side, typing. Sweeps in turn are divided into such as: rastolpolka (in front of one of the towels, and in the back two); Different parts (all parts of different lengths). This fashion was a character for the Smolensk province. And in the Kursk, Kaluga and Orel provinces, it was fashionable to wear open the front in the back, tucking corners in the waistband.

To leave for the city, women peasant women wore ponevu with the past. The foramen was a fourth cut of fabric that could be sewn into the skirt temporarily in the front or side. Often, this wage differed from the base in color or was limited to strips of kumach.

There was also a writing set, for which four pieces of cloth were prepared at once. At the same time, three parts were traditionally checkered and one part was monotonous, for example, black. All this was going to a special cord, which was called an "upshot". The most important difference of the set of ponevy from all the others is its colorful design.

Types of jewelry

According to tradition, it was customary to decorate the hem of the ponies, the seams of the past, the edges of the cuts, and so on. For this purpose, embroideries, cummerbund ribbons, various stripe patterns, rhombuses were used. In terms of decoration, there are also differences depending on the terrain.

So, in Voronezh, the ponies were adorned with bright orange embroidery from woolen thread. To her were also added different sequins, rosettes. And poneva, which used a looped seam with red thread, was called "positritka." After such processing, the fabric of the skirt looked like fur.

Differences in the scenery and color selection are determined not only by belonging to this or that area, but also by its purpose. The most beautiful poneva, of course, was considered a wedding, a few people were involved in the creation.

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