Oil flows between the engine and the box: causes and elimination of breakage

The engine and gearbox of any car uses oil. And it does not matter whether it's a diesel car or a gasoline car, on an automatic machine or a mechanic. Often during prolonged use, oil loses its level. It can not only enter the combustion chamber, but also flow in the compaction points. And the engine oil does not always flow. The transmission is also not insured against this. What if the oil flows between the engine and the box? In today's article, we will consider this issue in detail.

How the engine and transmission components are lubricated

The engine and gearbox use different types of oils. In the latter case, it is more viscous. Unlike the manual transmission, the engine and automatic transmission are lubricated by forced fluid supply. This function is performed by the pump. As for the mechanical box, here oil is applied to the teeth by splashing. The gear, located in the transmission case, scoops up the liquid, and thus the teeth are lubricated at the point of contact. Another feature is the oil change regulations . For internal combustion engines it is 8-10 thousand kilometers, and for automatic transmissions - 70 thousand. As for mechanics, on most machines it is maintenance-free. That is, the oil is poured for the entire service life. But this does not mean that you can not check the level of its balance. If the transmission flows, oil starvation can cause increased wear of the gear. As a result, it will fail. At replacement it is not necessary to pour above norm. Excess fluid will simply flow out of the "weak" places.

Motor or gearbox?

If the oil flows between the engine and the box, you need to determine from which particular node it disappears. If it's a thick liquid, it means it's a transmission fluid, and the problem is in the gearbox. If the vehicle is more than 10 years old, check the crankshaft rear oil seal. Due to wear and constant vibrations, it is squeezed out and lets in oil. You can also check the ventilation of the crankcase. To do this, you can bring a piece of paper to the previously removed nozzle. If the engine speed is over 1 thousand, it does not bend, the system is clogged. In this case, there is an increased pressure in the engine lubrication system and the fluid begins to flow, as they say, from all the cracks. The weak point is the joint with the gearbox. The transmission also has its own ventilation. It is carried out through the breather. If it is clogged, the pressure level inside increases, and oil leaks between the engine box. VAZ-2110 is no exception. The solution is cleaning the ventilation ducts and replacing the stuffing box. When installing the latter, it is recommended to put the second one, regardless of the state, since its resource is also limited.

Commonplace Causes

Why is oil flowing in the box? The reasons can be banal. This is a slightly tightened drain plug or unscrewed sensors. Sometimes a leak occurs due to a loosely twisted feeler. Here the leakage points can be seen without dismantling the box and eliminated on site. But what to do if these parts are tight, but still oil flows between the engine and the box? Let's consider further.

Serious malfunctions

There are a number of reasons for leaking oil, which require dismantling the box. The first is a breakdown of gaskets and other sealing elements. Also it can be an epiploon. But if in the case of the engine it is the crankshaft, then the transmission element of the primary shaft is flowing in the transmission. Why is there still oil between the engine and the box? This problem occurs when the pallet geometry is violated. This often happens when you hit a large pit or other obstacle. As a result, the pallet strikes the box and deforms. ) либо в неисправном масляном насосе. If this is an automatic gearbox, the reason is a breakdown of the "bagel" ( torque converter ) or in a faulty oil pump. The box itself is in emergency mode. The car works only in the third gear.

About additives

Now in the automotive world there are many additives. And some car owners, solving the problem of how to eliminate the leak of oil, run to the stores for a "miraculous" additive. Pour it into the engine or the box (and most often both there and there) and wait for the effect. But as practice shows, it does not give any results. The additive is not capable of eliminating mechanical damages of the pallet, "sealing" the torn gasket and recovering the extruded epiploon. The problem does not leave the car owner. The only thing that can reduce the effect of leaks is oil thickeners. Thus, you intentionally change its characteristics. But this is very harmful to the engine and gearbox, and leaks are 100 percent will not be eliminated. Therefore, you need to repair the manual gearbox, change the oil seals and gaskets. Reviews of car owners do not confirm the effectiveness of the additives.

How does the rear oil seal change?

This procedure is quite complicated, since the element is behind the clutch system. If it is a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the cardan shaft is removed. Further, as well as on front-wheel drive, - a box, the clutch assembly with a basket and discs, as well as a flywheel engine. The rear oil seal is installed in the body and fixed to eight bolts. After they are unscrewed, remove the body and press the new element. If there are difficulties in installing it, you can use a rubber hammer or conventional steel, using a soft gasket. The latter can be made from a piece of an old car camera. Then all the elements are collected in the reverse order.

Front

It is much easier to change than the rear. The element is located at the end of the crankshaft (on cars with a transverse arrangement of the engine - near the right post). For replacement we will need to remove the timing belt cover and put the piston of the first cylinder in the TDC. We loosen the tensioners and remove the timing belt, as well as the generator, after removing the pulley. Drain the engine oil. We dismantle the crankshaft pulley. We unscrew the oil pump. Inside it, the packing will be pressed. You can remove it with a minus screwdriver. The new is pressed with a large head (at 27 and above) or on a special machine. Further assembly is in the reverse order.

On the selection of oil seals for the gearbox

When buying, you need to consider what kind of oil in the box you will pour in the future. There are seals with different elasticity - for mineral and synthetic products. If you pour irrelevant oil in the box, such an element will start to crack. Usually it happens with "synthetics". It has good washing properties. Note that for automatic transmissions there is a separate series of oils with a certain viscosity. Their properties are significantly different from the fluids for MKPP.

Keep the engine clean

After replacing all the elements, it is necessary to make an external cleaning of the engine. So you eliminate the previous places of oil leakage and will know from what places it will flow in case of malfunction. It is advisable to perform motor and box cleaning every two years. Do not be afraid to direct the jet of water to the engine. The only thing - ensure the tightness of the ignition. It's a coil, a trambler, candles and high voltage wires. On them, the ingress of moisture is highly undesirable.

Summary

Thus, if there is a leak between the box and the engine, you need not postpone repair. MKPP is an automaton - it does not matter. A ride with a low oil level equally kills these boxes, not to mention the engine itself. Well, to control the daily level, climbing under the bottom and pulling the dipstick (if it's a box) - just insanity. With a one-time financial investment in repairs, you will forget about leaks for several years. And remember that with the use of oil thickeners you do not solve the problem, but simply hide it. Watch for drips of the car when it is in the parking lot. The presence of oily drops under the bottom is the first sign that you have oil between the engine and the box.