How to crop the grapes in spring is correct. Scheme of pruning grape in spring

Almost all owners of country houses or summer cottages necessarily allocate a part of their garden for growing grapes. With the help of this wonderful plant, you can not only create a cozy shady corner in your yard, but also get a solid harvest of delicious and healthy fruits. Experienced gardeners know that the key to successful cultivation of grapes of any sort is its correct pruning and subsequent care. We'll talk today about how to prune grapes in the spring.

Spring Trimming: Indications

Grapes are cut in late autumn or early spring. In regions with very cold winters, this procedure is carried out in the spring, until the beginning of sap flow and swelling of the kidneys. In places where winters are not particularly severe, pruning of the vine is carried out in late autumn, 3 weeks after the leaves have fallen completely. The first to cut the most frost-resistant varieties. In young plants and in varieties with weak resistance to colds, unnecessary shoots are removed only in the spring.

When autumn pruning, you should leave some "spare" kidneys in case some of them "freeze" in winter. If all the kidneys safely "survive" the cold, then the excess should be removed at the end of spring.

Pruning a grape in the spring for beginners in viticulture can seem like a tricky procedure, and there is some truth to this. First of all, you should remember that this process must be done on time, without delay. For example, you can not trim after the appearance of eyes on the plant, except in cases when they were damaged by frost in the winter. If the grapes are cut after the eyes have formed on it, then there is a risk of their loss due to the fact that they are still weakly kept on the vine. In addition, belated pruning causes the plant to further expend its precious nutrients. But if you did not know when and how to prune the grapes in the spring correctly, because of what they were late with this procedure, and the eyes were already formed, then do not touch the plant until the first pair of leaves appeared on its green shoots.

Care for grape in spring: pruning - pledge of a rich harvest

Correctly executed procedure of pruning of grapes is a guarantee of magnificent results:

• The sizes of a brush of a grape increase, berries are more full, getting more sated taste.
• The ripening of grapes is much faster.
• Cropped plant is much more resistant to various diseases, pests and frosts, and fruits do not deteriorate during the ripening period.

In addition, the pruning of grapes in spring for beginner gardeners will be of interest in terms of design of the home garden, because the crown of the plant can be given a definite shape. In addition, when forming it, you can also focus on the convenience of collecting the future harvest, so that later you do not have to reach for fruit from a ladder, a number of standing trees or other hills.

The right and superfluous: what is what?

So, the main rule according to which the pruning of grapes is made in spring, for beginners is as follows: you just need to cut all the excess, but nothing more. But first of all, it is necessary to understand what is superfluous, and what is necessary. First, it should be learned that in the next season the harvest will appear from the kidneys located on a young vine grown this season.

"Necessary", a young and thin vine has a light brown color. But the bush consists of a thicker and older vine, without which it can not be dispensed with, even though it will not yield a crop. Then the question arises: what is it for, this long-term timber? But everything is simple - it is a kind of storage of nutrients that are especially needed in the spring, when the grapes begin to grow. In fact, while young shoots do not acquire enough leaves, they do not give the bush absolutely nothing. Young growth is only a consumer of nutrition for its growth, that is, a real "sponger", feeding on long-term timber. However, the number of new shoots should be controlled, and for this, mandatory pruning of young grapes is carried out. But remember, if all the youngsters "cut off to zero," then the harvest can be expected no sooner than a year later.

Spring pruning in spring

So, we found out that the young vine is for harvest and the perennial is for food, but to find the "golden mean" when pruning, you should evaluate each plant individually. Initially, it is necessary to determine the optimal location of growth on a vine bush. To do this, it is recommended to select a certain form of the plant and support it in the future. There are different forms of grape bushes, but their actual use is real only in warm regions where there is no need to shelter plants for the winter. Therefore, in most cases, the configuration of the bush is formed taking into account the convenience of its shelter from frosts.

There are a couple of basic forms of grape bushes:

• Multi-arm fan - when at the base of the bush create 1-2 links of rejuvenation;
• Cup-shaped - this is also a multi-arm form, but with a cordon.

A certain scheme of pruning grapes will help to give the bushes the desired shape. Beginners-wine growers are recommended to cut grapes according to the Guyot system. Its meaning lies in the fact that it is necessary to leave one fruiting rod for ten kidneys, as well as one replacement rod for three kidneys or to keep a couple of such fruit links on the bush.

Basic rules of pruning grapes

It is very important to properly cut grapes to reduce the harmful effects of wounds. This process boils down to several important points:

• All slices are necessarily made on one side of the sleeve, since this arrangement of wounds will not prevent the entry of water and beneficial microelements to the rest of the bush;
• The thicker the young shoot, the more it should be cut off;
• Last year's vine-bearing vine should be removed;
• Excessively long sleeves are cut so that the strongest developed shoot remains on the fruit-bearing vine;
• If shoots were not formed on the knot of substitution, the fruit link is formed from the lower shoots;
• The wide part of the blade of the pruner should be directed to that part of the vine that remains, and the narrow part to the removed.

The very first, so to say debut, pruning grapes in spring for beginners will become a kind of test that will show if they have the ability in the future to become a real vine-grower. Beginners need to give one more tip: for cutting, you should use a sharp and strong secateur, which will cut off shoots with one confident movement. Then the remaining part of the vine will not separate, and the plant will be able to less painfully transfer the necessary "surgical intervention".

Fruit link - what is it?

The fruit link is a knot of substitution and fruit arrow, which are annual shoots located on a two-year-old horn. Usually two to four eyes are left on the substitution knot, and the fruit arrow is left much longer - with 5-12 eyes or even more.

Shoots and knots of substitution

Trimming shoots should be done, so that they, in spite of the polarity, developed the lower eyes, and then good shoots. As for the knots of substitution, they help not to move away from the center of the bush, because on the basis of polarity, the best shoots are the upper shoots. If only they are left, this will contribute to a significant elongation of the sleeve. When pruning, remove the fruit arrow with all the sprouts available on it. From the shoots formed from the replacement knot, "looking" down, make another bough substitution, and from the upper shoot make a fruit shooter. Shear points should be treated with shearing.

Sleeves of a bush

Sleeves are perennial branches through which nutrients (ascending current) are delivered to the whole plant from its roots. In addition, the downward current is moving along the sleeves to the roots - organic substances produced by the leaves.

The life span of sleeves varies from 4 to 6 years, and then the level of growth begins to decline. Some of the sleeves may not initially develop sufficiently and produce almost no harvest, so they should be removed so that the bush does not waste their resources.

Care of grapes

To grow large bunches, in the flowering period remove excess inflorescences, leaving 1-2 for the whole branch. To provide inflorescences sufficient solar illumination is necessary, pinching off the leaves that shade them. To ensure that all useful substances do not go only to young shoots, after selecting flowering branches, it is recommended to cut them at the height of the fourth leaf after the last inflorescence.

After all these procedures, the vine must look well sparse, with free branches that do not interfere with each other. At intervals of every 14 days until mid-July, young weak shoots must be removed to avoid overgrowing the bush and to prevent the shading of future clusters.

Of course, experience is a great thing, but if there is a desire to engage in viticulture, even beginners will be rewarded for their efforts with a rich and delicious harvest.