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Gel-lacquer under the cuticle: application technique

You visited the nail salon, but were dissatisfied with the result. When you applied bright colors of gel-varnish, this did not happen. But now, near the cuticle, the coating for some reason did not want to hold on and "slipped" to the center of the nail. Master assured that this is normal - so behave with dark gel-varnishes. Is she right? And how to apply gel lacquer under the cuticle?

Why does gel-lacquer come off?

If the coating does not reach the cuticle, this does not mean that the master did not paint the nail in this place. There is such a phenomenon - during polymerization, the pigment leaves the edges of the plate. If you look at the butt of the nail, then there will be the same picture.

I must say that not all coverings behave as they do. There are grades of varnishes, in which the likelihood of such a result is minimized. Very often this is the result of varnishes of Chinese origin.

The following occurs: when the base is applied, the nail is covered as close to the cuticle as possible. After polymerization, its upper dispersion layer is already a smaller surface.

A similar phenomenon can be observed by placing a droplet of water on a table. First it will be with steep edges, and as evaporation becomes more flat, losing its original shape, and eventually becomes a small wet spot.

The color layer lies on the variance of the base. As we recall, its area has decreased in comparison with the first, basic, layer. Therefore, the first color layer has a smaller area than the base. It moves from all edges to the center of the nail.

This is enhanced when a second colored layer is applied. And when it comes to the top (upper transparent coating), it remains a very small area of dispersion.

The effect of excessive dispersion on the coating

If you do not pay attention to the thickness of each layer, the following problems are possible:

  • Shrinkage coating;
  • Thickened ends of the nails;
  • Unclosed butt.

The photo shows how strongly the color layer from the cuticle left and how the "knobs" formed on the free edges of the nails. Apparently, the master painstakingly dyed the end of the nail, so the surplus was formed. Having polymerized, they created an ugly volume. And if you look closely, even from this perspective you can see that the end of the nail remained bright. Pigment from him "moved away."

Such a coating will not be worn badly. It will quickly break from the ends and have to redo everything. Already, the nails look as if the coating is two weeks old. Should I pay money for a worn look?

Method "gel-lacquer under the cuticle"

How to deal with an excessively abundant dispersion layer? After all, he is the culprit of the fact that shellac "moves away." Some advise to carefully remove the dispersion with a dry, lint-free cloth. Not all, not to break the technology, but only a part (pull off the nail excess). But there is a better way.

There is a method of coating so close to the cuticle that it is called "gel-lacquer under the cuticle." It includes three points:

  1. Careful preparation of the nail plate and proximal roller.
  2. Compliance with the coating technique.
  3. Work in thin layers.

With the accurate adherence to this technology, the ideal result should be obtained. Approximately, as in the photo below.

Unedged manicure and fineness of the coating with gel-varnish

Applying gel-lacquer under the cuticle with an unedged manicure has a number of points that can be a problem:

  • Not a cleaned eponymichus;
  • Not trimmed cuticle;
  • Not open proximal fold.

But if you overcome these obstacles, you can apply gel-lacquer under the cuticle. For this, a manicure is made very carefully, with the use of an anti-cuticle (a means destroying the bonds between keratin fibers). Eponichy after this is removed easily.

After application, we thoroughly degrease the surface, since the product contains oil, and this can prevent good adhesion of the coating to the nail keratin. Proximal folding is mandatory! We clean all the excess from there. If the cuticles have turned out ugly, torn edges - you can walk along them with a milling cutter.

Coating is carried out by raising the proximal roller. Sometimes it can simply be moved by a gunshot - it will hold on for some time. Just enough to make the base polymerize. If the roller in this position alone keeps badly - hold it with your fingers.

When working with thin layers it will be possible to perform well manicure with gel-lacquer under the cuticle. The proximal fold will hide the boundary of the coating. In time, the nail will move forward, a new eponymichus will grow, and the border will become visible. But the nail will remain closed with a thin skin, as if descended from the cuticle.

The impression that the gel-lacquer is applied evenly with the cuticle will remain. Of course, in two or three weeks it will be necessary to update the coverage. But gel-varnish on this and is calculated.

Cutting manicure and its effect on the coating with gel-lacquer under the cuticle

Doing an edging manicure, you can be completely confident that the proximal roller does not interfere with the application of gel-varnish layers. Plus such a manicure is that it can be done without anti-cuticle. Simple maceration (bath) with hot water softens the skin.

Since the gel-lacquer does not like wet nails, we dry our nails well after manicure. Consecutive processing of fingers with further isolation from water does not take much time. By the time when you need to put the base, the first hand will be completely ready. To dry the second, it will take five to ten minutes.

As the cuticle is removed, it will grow together with the extension of the nail. This will preserve the effect of "gel-lacquer under the cuticle" for two to three weeks.

Lacquer application technique

The usual technique for applying varnish is as follows:

  1. The brush is put on the nail at an angle of 45 °, not reaching the cuticle 1 mm, and straightened by a fan.
  2. The brush in this position moves to the cuticle and stops, on the hair not reaching it.
  3. The brush extends to the free edge.
  4. The brush is placed on the nail in the cuticle zone and makes a turning movement, staining the angle of the nail, then stretches to the free edge.
  5. The brush moves on the other side.
  6. The butt of the nail is sealed.

So all layers of a covering are put, their not less than four: base, two layers of color, top. This is a general outline of how to paint gel-lacquer under the cuticle.

The technique of applying gel

The gel is thicker than the lacquer by its consistency. To work with it you need other brushes. To thinly apply gel-lacquer, you can use the palette and gel technology.

On the palette with a brush from the bottle, apply a little gel-varnish. To apply in the cuticle zone, it is better to choose an art brush with a chamfered corner for Chinese painting.

After typing a little shellac on the brush, we put it on the nail, not reaching one millimeter to the cuticle. A pointed corner of the brush makes a movement describing the semicircle, and so we cover the nail in the cuticle zone.

Further application is similar to varnish technique. The layers are very thin. To lay out the material thicker, the brush is kept almost lying down. To remove excess material, raise the brush by increasing the angle.

The value of thin layers

The thinner the layer, the less the dispersion. Remembering this, when a dark color is applied, it is important not to make the layers translucent. To prevent this from happening, you should properly lift the pigment from the bottom of the bottle.

Substandard gel-lacquers will surprise: at the bottom along with the pigment will be the crumbs of dissolved plastic from the lid. We remove the crumbs not on the nail, but on the palette. Here is another plus in the direction of applying gel-lacquer with an artistic brush from the palette.

It is especially important to seal the nail end with thin layers, when the jacket is made. On the free edge, then there can be up to six layers. If you do not follow the thin even distribution of the material, you can get "beauty" from the first photo at the beginning of the article.

Not much wisdom is needed to apply gel-lacquer under the cuticle. The main thing here, as well as in general in nail-skill, accuracy and concentration. And all will turn out.

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