Floor leveling for laminate, parquet or floor tiles.

Modern floor coverings are so easy to use that any house-master is able to make their own laying. At the same time, a considerable part of the time is spent on the process of preliminary training, while the main work takes quite a few hours. It should be noted that leveling the floor for a laminate, tile or parquet is an obligatory stage of repair. Especially if there are significant unevennesses, differences in height. Otherwise, the new floor covering will simply rise, and all work will have to be remade.

We lay the laminate. Floor leveling by wet method

The technology of adjusting the concrete base with a screed refers to the classic of repair and construction works. Ready-made dry mixtures greatly facilitate the process. Note that the leveling of the floor under the laminate does not differ from the preparation of the base for laying parquet or ceramic tiles. Therefore, these recommendations can be safely used in any of these cases.

Before starting work, be sure to check that all adjacent communications are in good condition, since after flooring, access to them will be difficult. All cracks in the floor must be filled with putty. It is also necessary to remove traces of rust, grease, paint and other contaminants from the concrete surface. Finally, clean the concrete base with a vacuum cleaner.

The next step is primer application. For this purpose, compositions with a PVA or acrylate base are used. It is most convenient to treat the surface from the spray gun. However, the paint roller is also quite fit.

To separate the screed and walls, along the perimeter of the building, lay strips of expanded polystyrene or slats wrapped in film.

The room, a width of more than five meters, break into small areas, laying compensation gaps between them.

In the presence of significant defects, the floor leveling for the laminate is done by beacons. Since there are some nuances here, I would like to talk about this in some detail.

To install the guide, a building level of at least 1.5 meters is used. The first beacon is installed at the highest point of the floor, at a distance of 20 cm from the wall. All the subsequent establish using the level, focusing only on it. The distance between the beacons depends on the length of the rule. For example, with its size of 1.5 meters, from the first to the second set aside 1.30 cm, for all subsequent - 1.45 cm, for the latter also take the distance to 1.30 cm. Bracing beacons to the floor, most often , With the help of a rotband.

After the landmarks are established, it's time to start preparing the mixture for pouring. To achieve maximum uniformity, use a drill with a whisk attachment.

Ready solution is poured between the beacons and distributed by rule. If necessary, individual places can be adjusted with a wide spatula (construction trowel). Before the complete setting of the solution, it is necessary to wait about two days.

As you can see, leveling the floor under the laminate is a simple process, but quite long. It is most convenient to work in pairs. One prepares the mortar, the other aligns the screed.

Alignment of a wooden floor for a laminate

Wet screed is good for new buildings, where the coating is completely absent. If there is a wooden floor in the room it is more convenient to use another option. Dry screed allows in some cases to do without dismantling the coating. A slight height difference (no more than 1.5 mm per square meter) compensates the substrate for the laminate.

If the wooden floor is in good condition, it is possible to limit itself to cycling, with the subsequent adjustment and blurring of the slits with an acrylic mixture. Old boards, too, do not rush to throw. Refinishing and rebuilding the floor, you get a quality coating for a laminate or parquet.

Differences up to 10 mm are leveled with glue compositions based on PVA and sawdust.
Of course, a ramshackle as a "rough floor" is completely useless, so these elements need to be replaced with new ones.

There is another option for training, in which only lags are used, between which clay is poured. On top, sheets of particleboard or OSB of suitable thickness are laid. Mounting is performed on self-tapping screws designed to work with wood.

As you can see, the leveling of the floor under the laminate is quite easy. Saving money, time and nerves with this will be quite significant.