Role seam on the overlock (photo)

Most inexperienced needlewomen ask the question: "How can I process the edge of the fabric without using the overlock and will the wrapping line fit for this?" If you need not only a beautiful but also a high-quality mark, then you can not do without an additional device, and if you just learn how to work With a cloth and train on old scraps, then for the beginning, the availability of only one machine will do.

The main difference between a typewriter and an overlock is that the first only imitates a line, and the second - qualitatively makes a seam. This is easy to see if you compare two seam samples: machine and overlock.

When choosing an overlock, it is necessary to fully study the functionality of the selected model and familiarize yourself with modern seam processing technologies.

Features of the role seam

In the English transcription rolled, all the familiar role-playing stitches (photo is in the article), mean "swirling, folded."

If you pay attention to the lines themselves and the thread interlacing technology, then this notation becomes quite understandable. Role seam on the overlock - what is it? A thin stitch with a minimum frequency of stitch, characterized by density, is called a role seam. The application of such a seam appeared on necessity, it is necessary for those kinds of fabrics where the hem of the edges of the products is inappropriate due to the density of the material or other aspects that cause inconvenience during sewing.

Each of the specialized overlock machines has a special tongue at the level of the needle plate, occupying an intermediate position during sewing: between the fabric and the thread of the upper looper. This technological feature of the design allows you to avoid twisting the edges of the parts of the product, adjusts the same width of the seam, provides a smooth stitch. If there is a need to sweep the product, remove this tab, and the role seam on the overlock will work. At the same time, the width of the seam will be minimal, and the edge of the product will be twisted inside the stitched seam.

There are a number of subspecies of the marking, which is formed depending on the number of threads involved and the degree of their tightness.

Types of role seams

There are several types of role seams, which are divided by the number of threads involved during sewing:

• Two-threaded;
• Three-threaded;
• Four-stranded;
• Five-threaded.

We will analyze all the above types of role seams in more detail.

Two-threaded seam

Modern models of overlocks in their majority perform processing, using two threads. A two-threaded role seam can be made on a typewriter if it is equipped with a special converter that looks like a metal bracket worn over the upper looper. When a stitch is formed, the needle and the thread of the lower looper are activated. The function of the upper is to transfer the lower thread of the needle, which helps to form the correct stitch.

The main advantage of this type of seam is a smaller, in comparison with others, bulk.

The field of application is the treatment of fine and delicate tissues.

Three-threaded seam

This type of seam is considered the most elementary. If you do not plan to work in the garment industry in the future, you can just use the three-part role weld for processing products. To do this, you need a needle and a pair of loopers - levers with special holes, into which the threads are threaded. With this device, the thread is fed over the fabric.

In fact, if you are sewing for yourself, you do not need to buy an overlock. Today you can buy several sets of paws, including overlock, and sew for your own pleasure the same beautiful things as from the factory. Sometimes sewn with your own hands turns out better than goods from the store, and if you are a master of your craft and know how to cut, then much cheaper.

Using a three-threaded seam, cuts are processed in products made from different types of fabrics.

Four-suture

An improved analog of the three-suture filament is a four-threaded suture. When processing products on this principle, during operation, the needles (2) and lower loopers are activated. Externally, three- and four-threaded seams are similar, the only difference is an additional line, which is complemented by a second one.

Feature - fineness and strength at the same time. Therefore, the role seam, consisting of four strands, is best suited for joining parts of products and simultaneously sewing them.

Five-suture

Five-threaded seam is called a classic stitching-stitching stitch. Most often it is used for processing jeans trousers, therefore, having turned out such product outside, it is possible to familiarize in detail with a principle of processing by such kind of seams.

The five-part role seam combines a three- and two-thread joints at the same time, between which the "chain" of marking takes place at the chosen distance.

Sewing is carried out with two needles and three loopers, one of which is represented as a chain stitch lever.

With the help of such stitches, most often the crumbling types of fabrics are treated.

The main feature - the simultaneous performance of two functions: obtachki and obmyyvaniya edges of matter.

Models of overlocks that come to the market one of the last can perform operations, working with ten threads simultaneously. In this way, decorating products with decorative seams is obtained. Stranded threads form various patterns, shapes and ornaments that give the products a twist.

Less common stitch patterns

Individual models of sewing machines can perform the function of both the overlock and the stitching system at the same time. Machines of this type are called "rug".

The overlapping seam on the overlock (photo) with the crossover function is performed at the level of a special flattened mechanism.

Sew this way you can by equipping the machine with a special looper looper. The models equipped with such a lever cost an order of magnitude more than the usual ones, but they add functionality to the machines, in view of not only the seams described above, but also the stitches of the following types.

Single straight stitch chain stitches

Such lines are used for grinding parts or sewing products made of soft, elastic fabrics. In combination, two threads are involved: the needle thread and the thread fed by the chain stitch looper.

The main advantage of lines of this kind is elasticity. If necessary, the seam easily dissolves, without damaging the fabric.

Two- or three-line seams with flat stitches

The stitch type and the number of threads involved are controlled by the number of needles installed in the rug. On the front side you get a flat and light flat line, and from the back - a high-quality marking.

Such role seam on the overlock (photo below) is most often used for processing the bottom of products made from fabrics with the addition of elastin.

In the processing of sleeveless T-shirts and T-shirts from fine knitted fabric, flat role seams are used, which can be adjusted by adjusting the tension level of the thread on the overlock.

By engaging all three needles, it is possible to finish with a wide crosstitch suture (when using the extreme needles).

When the overlock is attached with an additional thread laying machine (top), it is possible to process the parts with a double-sided sewing seam. The principle of operation of such a machine is to create an interesting decorative pattern on the front side instead of straight parallel stitches. Technique of this kind in its majority performs from five types of double-sided stitches, but the cost of such machines corresponds to the declared functionality and not everyone can afford such luxury.

Thread tension levels when working with overlock

You have already familiarized yourself with all types of operations performed on the machine, due to the number of threads involved during the stitching. The degree of tension in this process is far from the last value. Adjusting the degree of tension of the threads, you can get different in appearance and quality of the stitch. So, having chosen a certain mode of force of the onslaught of a thread, you can receive lines of such kinds:

• A standard rolelock flatlock when using a two or three-threaded seam, with a strong tension on the thread of the lower looper and a lower tension of the needle thread. Stitching with a seam fabric, folded in two layers, you can easily deploy them by noticing a flat horizontal seam on the spread. The rolelock flatlock is conventionally called a flat seam, although its effect is more reminiscent of the stitching, which makes the stitch decorative.
• Two- or three-thread seam flatlock.
• Narrow and short overlock seams flatlock.

Mechanisms in overlock

After a detailed description of the types of seams and features of working with tensioners, you can begin to familiarize yourself with the special mechanisms that complete the machine to improve its functionality.

Differential conveyor

Thanks to such a device, the fabric is protected from deformation during sewing. The conveyor consists of combs, which are two in the device: one in front of the needle, the second behind it. They, while in motion, smoothly move the fabric, without exposing it to mechanical damage.

The differential transporter is also used to create various decorative effects on tissues, for example assemblies or waves.

Tension loops

One of the most complicated stages of sewing machine control is the adjustment of thread tension and filling of loops. Using such a mechanism, you still have to understand the essence of the action and adjust the role seam. Overlock in the modernized version is already equipped with a special looper filling system, and earlier it was necessary to deal with this troublesome process manually, figuring with the direction of the threads and the sequence of filling.

The degree of tension of the threads is corrected by means of a special lever or wheel. In the expensive models of the new generation of overlocks, the automatic thread tension adjustment system is installed, depending on the seam or stitch used in operation, but at the same time the manual adjustment function of the mechanism is retained.

In budget models, voltage regulators (wheels) are in the plane or on one of the axes. It is believed that a uniformly distributed tension between all the threads involved in the sewing process when operating at high speeds is achieved when the levers are positioned on the same axis.

Additional Functionality

The useful functions of the overlock described above do not end there. In addition to the basic, the device can be equipped with additional devices to expand the functionality, for example, paws, legs, designed for trimming threads, work with decorative elements. You can purchase a sleeve platform for high-quality tailoring of parts of products. As you can see, the role seam, photo and features of which we studied, is not the only thing you can do with this machine.

Having a certain amount of knowledge about overlocks, as well as determining the direction in sewing, you can safely go to monitor market offers. Analyzing the prices, functional and quality of machines, you can choose exactly the model of the mechanism that you need.