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Pamir tract. Journey through the Pamir tract by car and by bicycle

700-kilometer high-altitude asphalt motorway - Pamir highway is an excellent route for car or bicycle travel, if you prefer to spend your free time, knowing the world around you. Those who decide to choose such a variant of the holiday, await interesting adventures amidst the majestic mountain scenery of incredible beauty.

Description

The Great Pamir highway (photo below) is an automobile road that connects Dushanbe with the Kyrgyz city of Osh. It is customary to divide it into two parts. The first is the Western Pamir tract. It is quite a decent highway, along which you can get from the capital of Tajikistan to Khorog - the administrative center of Gorno-Badakhshan. As for the second, the Eastern part, then on the road leading to Osh, there are many difficult sections.

History

The need for a road connecting the Alai and Ferghana valleys emerged in the mid-1990s, the year before, after the annexation of these lands to the Russian Empire. The work was carried out by the sapper units and was successfully completed, despite the great difficulties that had to be overcome by soldiers under the leadership of Lieutenant-Colonel Bronislaw Grombichevsky, engineers Mickiewicz, Burakovsky and Zarakovski, as well as Lieutenant Irmut. In the 1930s, the road that is now known as the Eastern Pamir Route continued to Khorog, and later the western section was built up to Dushanbe. The opening of the latter took place in 1940, and it was named after Stalin.

condition

Unfortunately, the disintegration of the USSR and the civil war in Tajikistan led to the fact that from year to year a significant part of the Great Pamir tract gradually deteriorates. Moreover, the process of destruction of the road over the past few years has accelerated because of the permission to move heavy trucks from China through this route, which caused intensive exploitation of a highway that was not designed for this purpose.

Since a significant part of the Great Pamir tract is rather deserted and there are no gas stations on it, those who travel by car are advised to have a canister with fuel in the trunk, as they say, for every fire situation. It is strictly recommended not to choose such a route for people who have recently driven and are unable to cope with the minor repairs of the "iron horse", since, depending on the time of the year, in case of breakdowns, they will have to wait for help for more than one hour.

Trip from Dushanbe to Khorog

The western Pamir highway on a jeep can be overcome in about 18 hours. Such a trip with a local driver will cost 200 somon. One of its advantages is the lack of the need to negotiate with the villagers about the overnight stay, as those who carry tourists usually have on the route acquaintances ready to shelter them together with customers. The route runs along the valley of the Vakhsh River to the village of Kalai-Khumb. Then it is necessary to overcome the pass Khaburabot, located at an altitude of 3,720 m. After that the path will pass along the valley of the Obikhingou river. There are several villages with guesthouses where you can stay on vacation

Then a significant part of the way passes along the bank of the Pyanj River. It flows along the border with Afghanistan, so tourists can learn from the car window life in the villages of the country where the civil war is continuing and hundreds of terrorists of all stripes are hiding. At the same time, it should be noted for fairness that what has been said refers mainly to the areas in the central and southern part of this Islamic republic.

East Pamir highway by car or by bicycle: the beginning of the journey

Such a trip is usually started from the city of Khorog, which is located in the territory of Gorno-Badakhshan (Tajikistan) and is its capital. There is a small airport, capable of accepting Yak-40 aircraft, although in general there is a small An-28 flying there.

Since before landing it is necessary to make a dangerous turn, flights to Khorog are performed only in perfect weather. In the city, travelers can rest in a hotel, and also stock up on provisions in local stores and traditional bazaars.

Road

After Khorog, the motorway goes up and down. After a few tens of kilometers, the asphalt coating ends. Along the road, travelers can meet Buddhist caves and ruins of ancient fortresses. For example, in a small village of Yamchun after turning into the mountains, they have to overcome a sharp rise leading to ancient fortifications, which can be enjoyed by lovers of history. In addition, nearby they will have the opportunity to make a halt and dip into hot mineral springs, the water from which helps to get rid of joint pain and treats infertility. At least, so say locals who do not recommend taking such baths for more than a quarter of an hour, in order to avoid problems with well-being.

Where to sleep

Those who decided to drive the Pamir highway by bicycle or by car will not have any problems with where to stay after sunset. Accommodations in those parts they will be offered in any house, since local residents are extremely positive about tourists. In this case, you should behave modestly and do not try to dictate your rules. In particular, guests need to be prepared for the fact that they are offered to go to bed on the floor and eat with their hands. At the same time, people who are familiar with local traditions say that it will be good if in the morning travelers will leave the hospitable owners with the sum of 10 dollars from one member of their company.

The road to Alicur

After the village of Langar for 70 kilometers the road passes through a desert area, not far from which are the peaks of Karl Marx and Engels, 6,723 and 6,507 meters high, respectively. This is one of the most difficult sections of the road, which in winter is almost impossible to overcome.

Then the main asphalted highway of the Pamir highway will start again, from where it is easy to get to the picturesque lake Yashil-kul. Near him at an altitude of 3,700 m is the village Bulunkul, where you can relax in one of the guest houses. Around the lake there are also mineral springs and a small geyser.

The way to the lake Karakul

Starting from Alichur village, the Pamir highway passes through the territory of ethnic Kyrgyz, so tourists will meet yurts and people in traditional white headdresses. After 80 km they will pass the village of Murghab, whose inhabitants breed yaks, and after 25 km they will approach the mineral hot springs of Eli-Su. Next to them are yurts with swimming pools, where guests are offered a fairly comfortable stay.

Further the road goes towards the border with China, and then turns to the lake Karakul with cold brackish-bitter water, which is surrounded by a chain of mountains and white solonchaks.

Journey through the Pamir tract: Kyrgyzstan

Having overcome a small checkpoint, motorists or cyclists will leave Tajikistan. Then their way will pass through the territory of Kyrgyzstan. There, tourists will have to pass the worst part of the route, which is practically impassable in rainy weather due to slippery clay. In a few hours they will be in the city of Osh, which is the final point of the Eastern Pamir tract. There travelers are waiting for a comfortable rest and the opportunity to take advantage of all the benefits of civilization, which they were deprived of on a trip. If they wish, they can continue the trip and travel to Bishkek, the distance to which along the M43 is 700 km.

Now you know what awaits you if you decide to choose a place for your bicycle or car journey Great Pamir Trakt.

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