Local painting of the car with your own hands. Local car painting: prices, reviews

In the life of a motorist, a lot of trouble happens. Sometimes after an unsuccessful maneuver in the parking lot, the consequences can be extremely unpleasant. But if you "caught" a scratch on the body of your iron friend, do not be so upset. Local painting - this is the type of repair that will allow you to avoid colossal financial costs. However, it does not take away a lot of time from you. Local car painting - what is it and what is the essence of this work? About this and not only in our today's article.

Characteristic

Local painting of the car is one of the most popular ways to eliminate deformations of paintwork on various parts of the body. This service is provided by most Russian workshops for a very reasonable amount. To date, the local painting of the car is a high-quality and high-grade repair of plastic and metal parts of the vehicle body with the use of original paint and special equipment.

Where is this type of restoration used? Only those areas of the body are subjected to local painting, where the area of damage to paintwork is relatively small and where paintwork materials can be disintegrated with minimal use of putty. It can be any of the sections, for example, bumper, wings, side doors, trunk lid, hood, thresholds and so on.

When can this type of repair not be used?

Local painting of the car is effective only when the area of damage to the part is less than 30 percent. Otherwise, this element undergoes a complete restoration. That is, the entire area of the part is newly painted and varnished in a tone with the rest of the body color of the car. The local method of repair is most often needed when removing small damages, for example scratching, chipping or small dents. In the latter case, the masters use a special layer of putty (not to be confused with construction), which allows smoothing the deformation and returning the damaged part to its original, original factory look.

Thus, the local painting of the body of a car is a method of repair, in which most of the detail remains with the factory paintwork and only up to 30 percent of its area is subjected to additional painting.

Technology of work

It is worth noting that this type of restoration includes the same actions as with full body painting. The difference lies only in the scale of the work being done. So, the local painting of a car part consists of the following stages:

• Preparation. First of all, the part is subjected to mechanical cleaning and degreasing. First, the surface of the element is thoroughly washed with a soap solution, then it is blown under pressure and, finally, it is treated with a chemical degreaser (white alcohol, for example). At this stage, the part is completely freed from particles of dirt, dust, various salts and grease stains.
• Putty. Previously, the part is ground using a coarse and fine-grained sandpaper. Further the master makes repeated degreasing and a blowing of a surface. This is necessary in order to clean the surface of the element from small metal burrs. Often, the part shpakuetsya in several layers. But it all depends on the depth of the dent. For example, if it is a chip from a pebble, here it is enough to impose one thin layer.
• Fitting and leveling the surface. The dried putty is treated with abrasive materials (sandpaper), sanded and carefully blown.
• Primer. After the adjustment, the surface of the section is treated with several layers of soil. Most often the part is covered in 3 layers. At the same time, each of them is dried before applying the next one.
• Treatment of the primed area. Here, as in the previous cases, the part is blown and re-degreased. Sometimes experts apply abrasive materials for better smoothing and fitting.
• Painting. This is the final stage of the work. After completing all of the above, the part is painted. Most often it is applied in 2-3 layers, then dried and varnished. If the paint was selected correctly (that is, clearly on the serial number), this body section will not have any traces of restoration, depressions, stains and roughness.

As a result, we get a qualitative result - the machine again looks like before, without any dents and chips.

What advantages does the local car paint have?

Reviews of car enthusiasts say that this type of restoration works has a lot of advantages compared to full painting and even more so with the use of so-called "scratches pencils". First, it is the speed of the work. If the full paint is given at least 4-5 days, then the local can be produced in 2-3 hours, depending on the scale of the deformations of the LCP. Secondly, this is a high quality of work. If, after using the pencil, the damaged surface remains rough and rough to the touch and deformed in appearance, then local painting will not give rise to such statements. In fact, the deformed area undergoes a complete restoration, and it is practically impossible to distinguish it from the factory one. Third, it is the cost of repair. Unlike full, this kind of painting is ten times cheaper, which will save a fairly large amount of money. By the way, the local restoration of some body parts in the workshop is sometimes even cheaper than packing pencils to remove scratches. But we'll talk about the cost of the work later, and in conclusion about the advantages, we note that this method of painting allows you to maximally keep the factory body of the body on the part. In addition, when selling cars you do not have to prove that this car was previously involved in an accident.

How is the local painting of the car by yourself?

Partial painting of the machine with your own hands is a job that does not require many financial waste. But at the same time you will have to be patient and attentive. Above we told all the stages of these works, so with the implementation of this operation you should not have serious problems. So, let's get to work.

Local painting of the car with your own hands - inspection of the site

The first thing we do is to examine the damaged place on the body well. Note also that in addition to one scratch, you can find a lot of other deformations in the form of chips, microcracks, etc. Of course, they will not be concentrated in one place. All of them are evenly scattered on the body, but to a greater extent they are found on the rapids and the front bumper (especially the lower part). These are the most vulnerable places to damage. Therefore, carefully examined the body around the perimeter, mark all the deformed areas. After removing all the chips and scratches at once, you will no longer think about how you could restore the rest of the damage. In addition, the appearance of your car as close to the original as possible, but it's a big plus.

Important point: before inspecting the machine for other deformations, thoroughly wash it. So you will have a great chance to see the microcracks hidden under the dust layer and fix them in time.

Disassembly

If the deformation occurred in places difficult to repair, for example, door handles or in places near emblems, inscriptions and moldings, it is recommended to remove them when doing work. Pasting these areas with tape does not always save, because after the final chord of painting, it leaves a clear band that gives out the painted part. Therefore, if possible, remove these elements, so as not to be disappointed in the final result.

Alignment

Next, you need to align the part. This is not an obligatory operation and it is done only if the site is deformed very strongly. After processing the metal with sandpaper, it is necessary to smooth the surface with a layer of putty. Then, the sandpaper is re-processed. But you need to do this only after the putty has finally withered, that is, after 30-60 minutes. Do not forget about the sequence - first large, then fine-grained paper. After applying the primer in one or more layers.

Painting

You can paint the part in two ways - with the help of an atomizer and acrylic paint, or with a can of nitro-enamel. In the latter case it is important not to lose with the number of the shade. The exact cipher of the paint is stamped on the car's body. On it, and should choose nitro-enamel. As for the choice of lacquer, it can be any. The main thing - designed for body surfaces and without any shade.

Polishing

After the final stage, it is recommended to do one-off abrasive polishing. The main thing is to wait until the paint is completely dry. Otherwise, you have to repeat everything anew. Often nitro-dye dries in 1 hour, acrylic after 3-4 hours. After that it is recommended to put a layer of protective polish, which will give details of shine and smooth out the transition between the factory paintwork and the restored one with his own hands.

Assembly

At the end of the work, the elements removed must be replaced. As for moldings, if the factory adhesive is lagging behind, you can use double-sided tape or use a tool like "Moment" or "Liquid Nails".

Cost of works in the workshop

How much does the local car paint in Kiev? On average, the restoration of body parts begins with a mark of 200-250 hryvnia. The most costly restoration of the trunk lid, hood and roof. Here the price can reach 500 hryvnia. In Moscow, for the same work they take several times more. For example, local painting of the car SWAD (in the South-West Administrative District) will cost 2.8-12 thousand rubles. The cost depends on the level of reputation of the SRT and the scale of the work.

Conclusion

So, we found out what the local painting of the car is. The price for it, in contrast to the complete painting of the details is 40-50 percent lower. At the same time, it is quite possible to carry out this operation with your own hands. The main thing is to know theoretical knowledge and the necessary set of materials, the main of which is paint. Its number must necessarily match the cipher in the plate on the body of your car. Otherwise, there is a big risk to paint out of tune with the factory LCP.