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COCOCO - restaurant in St. Petersburg: description, menu, reviews

COCOCO - it's something even for a species who has seen St. Petersburg! Some establishments stake on the interior, others take a number of dishes, others surprise with an unusual format, but COCOCO (restaurant), whose owner, Sergey Shnurov, himself is a very shocking person, has made a whole revolution in terms of the concept. If to say briefly and capaciously, then this is gastronomic postmodern.

Idea

The chip of the establishment consists of a combination of the latest innovative culinary practices and exclusively seasonal products that are grown by farmers in the Leningrad region. Also, the basis of the menu was an old Russian recipe, which succumbed to author's processing. Why did this idea arise? Firstly, it is too much in St. Petersburg in particular, and in Russia in general, institutions that promote foreign cuisine. There is nothing wrong with this, but the founders of COCOCO wanted to pay attention to the original Russian recipes, to return to the roots, to revive the love for national dishes and to show that nettle soup or liquid nitrogen soup can be no less interesting than exotic ones Already managed to podnado risotto or sushi.

Secondly, it is the desire to eat healthy foods. In most establishments, products go a long way from the producer to the kitchen of the restaurant and therefore are amenable to some processing in order to preserve freshness, and are more expensive than domestic ones due to the cost of delivery. And the owners of COCOCO are sure that local farms are able to grow quality vegetables and fruits, which at a price will be cheaper than imported ones. In addition, such products do not need any treatment, because their way from the bed to the plate is very, very short.

And all this goes hand in hand with the world trends of high cuisine, which was very laconically formulated by renowned chef Renee Redzepi: "The plate that gets to the table to the client should clearly tell about which geographical point and at what time of year it is located ".

Total, seasonality and locality - these are two whales, which are surely worth the newfangled COCOCO.

Through hardship to the stars

Not so long ago, in 2012, the restaurant COCOCO (St. Petersburg) appeared. Shnurova Matilda, the wife of the frontman of the Leningrad group, inspired by the popular idea of seasonal and local cuisine, decided to open the institution with such deviation. At that time it was a bold move, because in Russia there was nothing like this, and it was not known whether people would go to such a peculiar farm restaurant. To the choice of the chef, Mrs. Shnurova approached very responsibly. They became an amazing master of culinary art Igor Grishechkin.

So, in December 2012, when many expected the end of the world according to the Mayan calendar, a restaurant COCOCO (St. Petersburg) opened in the city on the Neva along Nekrasov Street. But to defend their place under the sun was not easy. After all, although in Europe healthy food has long been in the main trend, in Russia the farmer's restaurant was slightly ahead of time. Therefore, there were very few visitors: well, they did not understand at first what ... It took three whole years to conquer its audience, but the institution persistently kept to its concept. And the recognition did not take long to wait: in 2015 COCOCO (restaurant, SPB) took the fourth place among the best institutions of the city, and Igor Grishechkin was declared the best chef of the year.

Suppliers of products

Now the restaurant cooperates with fifteen farms. They are led not by peasant amators, but by real professionals. For example, cheese products are delivered by a producer from the Vsevolozhsk District, who has completed a course of study in France and now himself breeds goats and cows. They include classical music and wine, so that the quality of milk is better. A professional pharmacist in Volosovo district collects herbs and roots, and fish is directly purchased from fishermen on Lake Ladoga. With large supplier companies they do not cooperate in principle, because they usually feed animals with chemical additives and treat plants with pesticides.

Meat, fish, poultry, vegetables are brought daily to avoid prolonged frost, grass - every other day. In short, the restaurant is responsible for the environmental friendliness and freshness of the products from which the dishes are prepared.

Design

And where is COCOCO now? The restaurant in 2015 changed its dislocation: from Nekrasov Street moved to Voznesensky Prospekt, 6, to the W Hotel. Peterburg. In this regard, dramatically changed and design. If in the previous appearance of the restaurant there were many straight geometric lines, wooden finishes (tables and bar stools of rough bars), now the deliberately simple style was replaced by refined eclecticism.

Chef

Igor Grishechkin was born in Smolensk, where he started his restaurant career. Having moved to Moscow, he worked in Casta Diva, Ragu, and Blogsistan. Also worked with the gastronomic living room LavkaLavka. There his skill was noticed by the Shnurovs, who were looking for a boss for their new project, which was COCOCO (restaurant). Jobs of this kind provide an opportunity for self-development and implementation of the most insane ideas. Therefore Grishechkin agreed.

The new chef turned the cooking of food into a whole philosophy. He believes that every trip to a restaurant is obliged to give a person those emotions that he does not feel at home. Grishechkin compares this with a visit to the cinema. He creates not just dishes, but whole images, associations. Ideas draw from the taste memory of childhood and adolescence.

Restaurant COCOCO (Saint-Petersburg): menu

Here the bet is made obviously not on the number of dishes, and this is understandable, since the menu changes according to the season. There are also permanent positions, such as the famous "Tourist's Breakfast". In general, COCOCO (restaurant) speaks modern gastronomic language, because molecular cuisine is used here.

So, as an appetizer here offer an assortment of farmer cheeses with onion jam, pike perch with spicy carrots and dill ice cream, marrow with pickled vegetables, capelin caviar and rye bread toast, baked beetroot with Adygei cheese mousse, moose stew . The most popular position in the same series are the tubules with the taste of Borodino bread and the moss of sprat - the Russian analogue of sushi.

From the first dishes here serve rassolnik, cold soup "Vinaigrette", potato cream soup with red caviar.

Meat dishes of the SOSOCO are very popular, especially the already mentioned "Tourist's breakfast", as well as beef tenderloin with baked vegetables and kvass sauce, ham pork neck, beef Stroganoff with boletus and rye flour paste. Among fish dishes there are cod, flounder and pike-perch in author's processing. For the one who prefers the bird, a chicken, stuffed quail and duck is cooked here.

Sweetheads will find a lot of interesting, especially intriguing names such as a honeycomb with ice cream from wax and "Mom's favorite flower". Anyone who remembers the good old days, can try ice cream in accordance with GOST in a waffle cup.

From the very names in the menu, the brain explodes, because once you want to imagine a combination of tastes of sounded products. For example: beef tongue, masked in herb puree, birch syrup and burdock root, pea jelly with crispy loaf of flax seeds, nettle soup with sorbet from Karelian trout and ivan-tea.

Interestingly, recently there have been many imitators of COCOCO. The restaurant, the menu and the concept of which somewhat resembles its predecessor - it's St. Petersburg "Vinaigrette", as well as "Birdyard", "Block". This suggests that the new Russian cuisine has taken root and is becoming popular.

Fantasy feed

About this it is necessary to tell separately. What is it worth only "Tourist breakfast". Served, as befits a dish with this name, in a tin can open jar. The composition of the dish includes steamed perlivka, tar-tar from beef and yolk quail eggs. And around the jar is laid out with slides of garlic mashed potatoes, sprinkled with Borodino bread, ground coffee and sunflower seeds - such imitation of the earth. Immediately imagine yourself near a fire surrounded by bards with guitars.

Sauces to filigree rolls of fat are served on a palette, like colored paints. The honeycomb is laid out in the form of honeycombs. All this and much more looks very creative.

A most interesting dessert "Mom's favorite flower" is made in the form of a broken pot of violets with crumbling earth on a plate in the form of a parquet board. Everything looks so natural that at first it's uncomfortable. Such a miracle can not be photographed.

Price list

The average check is 1500 rubles. By the way, due to the fact that all products are taken only from the Leningrad region, and prices are not sky-high for restaurants of this level. If you walk through the menu, then snacks and desserts, for example, cost from 210 rubles, the first dishes from 250 rubles, meat from 670 rubles, fish and poultry from 850 rubles.

COCOCO (restaurant): reviews

Although not everyone immediately grasps the idea, but mostly the guests are more than satisfied. Evaluate originality, conceptuality, setting.

Now there's nowhere to drop the needle, especially on the weekend. However, in connection with this popularity of the restaurant, a table is allocated for 2-3 hours, no more, and then delicately asked to leave. You can understand customers who are extremely unhappy with this.

Complain that the order sometimes it is necessary to wait from 30 to 40 minutes. But this is not surprising, because almost everything is done from under the knife.

Careers

In March 2016 COCOCO (restaurant) opened a season of internships. The institution now invites young, courageous, talented to work under the guidance of the genial chef of modern times Igor Grishechkin. This is an excellent opportunity to acquire new skills, and in the future and work in one of the most prestigious restaurants of modern Petersburg.

COCOCO - restaurant-popularizer of local cuisine - for many visitors of the city became a cult place. Many celebrities come here. So the new Russian cuisine in the filing of this institution will soon become a model for imitation.

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