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Ancient Rus: clothes. Clothing in Russia: women's, men's, children's

Historians did not agree on how the Russian dress of the pre-Slavic era looked, for at that time the tribes lived mainly away from trade routes, often in forest and isolation areas. However, there are suggestions that the outfits in those days were simple and rather monotonous. The latter is due to the fact that crocheting at home was quite laborious at that time, since there were practically no technical means for making articles of the wardrobe.

About the ancient clothes preserved little information

Public education Ancient Rus, whose clothing became increasingly diverse as it came into contact with other nations, began to take shape in the ninth century of our era. Prior to this period, data on the appearance of the Slavs are minimal, as the wardrobe items at that time were made of natural materials, whose organic remains are not preserved for a long time. In addition, it should be borne in mind that in the 6th-9th century AD, it was customary for Proto-Slavs to burn bodies before burial, therefore, in the cemeteries they find mostly remnants of melted ornaments or metallic elements of clothing. Archaeologists were lucky only a few times, when they, for example, found excavations of skin on Old Ladoga, which allowed to restore the appearance of mittens and the similarity of boot-stockings worn by our distant ancestors.

To fight in one pants

In foreign written sources before the 10th century AD there is no mention of how the Slavs and Russian clothes looked. Neither Byzantine authors nor Arab sources write about this. Only P. Kesarsky in the sixth century mentioned that the Slavs (from the Balkans) go into battle in some pants of a shortened style, without a cloak or chiton from above. Later, when the Slavs acquired a new variant of writing, the scientists on the basis of written sources had the opportunity to determine how people looked at that time, at least the most eminent of them.

Tsars wore shirts

What did the people under whose control Ancient Rus looked like looked like? The clothes of Prince Svyatoslav Yaroslavovich, represented in the image in Izbornik in 1073, are distinguished by a simple cut. This is a long, below the knee, shirt, on which a cloak with a clasp on his shoulder is thrown over. On the head of the prince cap, presumably with fur trim, legs with sharp-nosed boots. Members of his family, standing side by side, also wear shirts tied with belts. His wife Svyatoslav has a shirt almost to the floor, a headscarf on his head. Children's clothing on a small child is a reduced copy of an adult. The sons of Yaroslav are dressed in the likeness of caftans with collars and, most likely, wore so-called "ports" - rather narrow trousers with a string on hips. The wardrobe items on the image are painted in reddish-brown tones.

Clothing was made on a loom

Experts suggest that the light clothing of Kievan Rus was largely white, since from the prehistoric times the Slavs made linen and hemp articles that gave white fiber (or grayish, with insufficient bleaching). Already in the 6th-9th centuries, the tribes of Northern Russia knew what a vertical type loom was , and in the south they found objects belonging to the 9th-10th centuries that indicated possible works on a horizontal loom.

In addition to linen and hemp fabrics, the Slavs also actively used woolen, the remains of which were found in the East Slavic burial mounds. In addition, because of climatic features, fur clothes were very popular. The tailors of that time already had the skill of sewing together several skins to get things of a large size. Skins of wolves, bears, rams were most often used for "fur coats," and the lining was made of sable, otter, beaver, squirrel, ermine, marten. Of course, in expensive furs walked only representatives of the nobility. In Russia, they could also process the skin of various animals (tanning with plant elements, etc.), so men's clothing in Russia included waist belts, mittens and leather shoes (for some members of the population). Slavs more often wore leather goods made from the skin of cows or goats than from horse skins.

Even in frost, probably wore a bast

What was Ancient Rus shod? Clothing from natural materials from most of the population here in the cold season was supplemented ... with bast shoes and windings on their feet, which are the oldest kind of shoes (in summer, most likely, they were barefoot). Special hooks for weaving laptey archaeologists are still found on the Neolithic sites, so it is likely that these models were worn by both the Slavs and the Proto-Slavs. The bast shoes were made, as it is supposed, from the bark of various tree species and were very unsuccessful. In a later period it was established that in winter the peasant was wearing out bast shoes for ten days, and in summer suffering - less than a week. Nevertheless, even the Red Army marched in such uniforms in the 1930s, and a special commission, Chekvolap, was engaged in the procurement of laptets for military purposes.

In the temple - only in Slavic clothes!

Slavs, who were inhabited by Ancient Rus (clothes and shoes which did not differ in a large assortment), nevertheless respected their simple wardrobe. For example, in the "Daniel Zatyonik's Word" it is stated that "it would be better if we could see our foot in the ballet (lapte) in your house than in a scarlet boot in the boyar court". And the leader of the Czech Slavs is most famous for not letting the ambassador of the German King Dagobera to his place until he changed into Slavic clothes. The same fate befell the representative of the bishop, German Gerimann, who, before visiting the temple of Triglav in the town of Schetino, was to change into a Slav cloak and hat (1124 CE).

Women have always loved jewelry

About how women's clothes looked in Russia at the very beginning of the birth of Russian statehood, archaeologists find it difficult to say. It is assumed that the style is not very different from the men's shirt, but was, perhaps, more richly embroidered and longer. On the head of the woman wore prototypes of kokoshnikov, temporal rings, on the neck - often blue or green glass beads. Seldom met bracelets, rings. In the winter, ladies wore fur coats, as well as capes with strings, like aprons - "understand", which protected the lower body from behind and from the sides. Their presence was recorded as early as the 11th century AD.

Influence of other states

As the contacts between other countries and the state developed, Ancient Rus, the clothes of the Slavs became more diverse due to new fabrics, the borrowing of styles and the division of society into different layers. For example, in pre-Mongol Rus (10-13 century), the appearance of the Russian nobility more in accordance with Byzantine traditions with their long flowing shirts, cloaks with clasps. And among ordinary people, particularly women, such tendencies were emphasized by the "trappings" - a simple piece of cloth folded in half, with a hole for the head, which was worn on the main shirt and girded (there were no side seams at the zapona). On holidays the same ladies wore "forefathers" from fabrics with embroidery, which were worn on top of the zapovedni or shirt and represented tunics without a belt with wide sleeves. Almost all clothes of the times of Kievan Rus were worn over the head and did not have their own collar (were overheads).

Clothing of Mongol wars

The Tatar-Mongol invasion left certain borrowings in the sphere of material culture, which influenced what clothes were in Russia in the following centuries. Many items of the wardrobe of the Mongolian soldiers appeared later among Russian men, including boots with felt stockings, a hat with ear flaps, a coat made of two layers of fur (outer and inner), trousers, armyaks, skullcaps (tafia), belt-sashes,

What was the difference between the clothes of Moscow Rus from the clothes of Kievan Rus?

Clothing of the 15th century, when the Tatar-Mongol yoke was overthrown, and Russia became the Moscow principality, changed in accordance with the epoch, but mainly for boyars, nobles and townspeople. During this period, the suit retained the main features of the costume of Kievan Rus - a shirt and ports for men, an undisturbed cut of wardrobe items, a considerable length, but there were signs of a new fashion. To them, in particular, can be attributed the presence of clothes in the wardrobe. For women, it was unbuttoned to the bottom, men - to the waist and supplied at first with a clasp "by butt" through hinged loops. Later, the right floor was set on the top to the left, which was explained by the convenience of such fasteners for men in saber battles.

Fake sleeves and embroidery in gold

Approximately in this period, nonfunctional elements appear in the nobility's clothing. These include skeletal multi-layered collars and hinged sleeves, which, for example, on a bumpy, tied on the back, emphasizing that the owner of clothing is not engaged in heavy labor. Rich people could wear several layers of clothing on themselves even during the hot season. At the same time, the wardrobe items were often fully fastened to the fasteners. The latter stipulated that the clothes had many elements of the jewelry level, including jewelry with pearls, precious stones, embroidery with gold and silver wire, buttons made of gold, silver, enamel and precious stones.

Were in the Russian wardrobe of the time and objects that could emphasize certain properties of the figure. They include a waist bag, a purse ("kalita"), which the soldiers wore at the waist with a slender figure, and the boyars - on the thigh line with a significant outfit, since the fullness in this environment was valued very highly, as a sign of a full life.

What children's clothes of the period of Moscow Rus looked like is unknown. Most likely, it was again a simplified copy of adult models. But the samples of ladies fashion of that time inspired many artists to create picturesque masterpieces (Korovin, Repin, Surikov). At the heart of the whole wardrobe was again a shirt, widened downwards at the expense of the wedges (the width could reach down to 6 meters!). She was sewn from cotton or silk fabrics (ordinary people - again from flax) and collected on the neck.

Fashionable suit ... weighing 15 kilograms

Over his shirts he wore a sarafan of bright fabric with a vertical embroidered stripe in the middle, which held on narrow straps and was often tied under the breast. Upper women's clothing in Russia in the 16th century was represented by a "shower" of bright fabrics, which also held on the shoulders on the straps. During the time of Moscow Rus, the ladies continued to wear ancient elements of clothing - ponevu, apron, zaponu, etc. Representatives of the same rich families wore a "summer", often with a beaver collar necklace, a fur jacket of fur. Among the headdresses, "kika" - a cloth wrapped with a hoop and a kokoshnik was popular, in the winter time - a hood with decoration. Clothing boyaryn almost always uncomplicated, sewn from expensive fabrics with numerous embroideries, and their weight could reach up to 15 kilograms. In such clothes, the lady was a static, sedate, partly monumental figure that corresponded to the fashion and norms of behavior of that time.

Clothing of the 17th century in Russia in general was similar to the clothes of previous centuries, but some new structural elements also appeared. These include the entry into fashion of a wide sleeve, gathered on the wrist of women's shirts, the widespread use of sashanas - sarafans, to which from behind were sewn two false long sleeves. Historians note that since the 17th century the fashion for decorating with a strip of sarafan hem and its disappearance from the front panel has come. Foreign fashion in Russia during this period concerned little, only new fabrics and individual elements, like the Polish caftan, enjoyed popularity. It is worth noting that Russian society actively opposed the introduction of "German" fashion in the early 18th century by Peter the Great, as the proposed outfits, hairstyles and way of life did not match the centuries-old way and tendencies in Russian clothes.

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