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National Chuvash costume: description and photo

The clothing of the peoples living on the territory of Russia had not only the most diverse forms of forms, but apart from its basic purpose - purely utilitarian (protection from cold, from heat, rain, etc.) - it had its own ritual and symbolic functions. This is the Chuvash suit, which will be discussed in this article. It can be considered in three aspects according to the main features of ethnogroups: virial is the top (from the upper Volga), anatriznazovye, anatenchi - srednenizovye Chuvash. Their costumes differ in tailoring, color preferences and ornamental character of ornaments.

Materials

The clothes of the Chuvashes were made not only from purchased fabrics, but most often they were materials of leather, felt, homespun canvas cloth or cloth. Shoes were made of wood and bast. Canvases wove all the Deverene women from small to large, and not only Chuvash. For this, flax and hemp were grown, they were handled in rather laborious ways, then they were used for the production of linen.

Chuvash costume, made for the holidays, was quite different from everyday clothes. Even the canvas itself was different: thin - for festive clothing, much rougher - for working trousers and shirts. Sheep's wool, spun thinly, was intended for wedding and festive caftans, and thicker yarns wove thick cloth for ordinary chapanas and caftans.

The nineteenth century left quite a few items that at that time represented the Chuvash costume, many of them can now be seen in museums, admiring and admiring almost lost skills now. This garment is beautiful, even everyday paints (the one that has already been colored in one color). A pestryad makes us wonder at how inventive people were in the pursuit of beauty. Pestry was made from already stained yarn, and the patterns of the fabrics were very different, not just strips and cages. This Chuvash costume from the lower reaches of the Volga is so multicolored, while the upper and middle-sided Chuvashes preferred white canvases, but with abundant embroidery. Closer to the twentieth century, such a cloth was woven even from purchased threads. Fabrics factory were very expensive, but they also bought and used sparingly - for finishing.

Types of clothes

Chuvash national costume under the influence of time and a variety of factors is quite strongly modified. This was influenced by the geographical environment, and traditional people's studies, the world outlook at different epochs of history. Of course, the division into upper and outer clothing remained unshakable, as it was dictated by the functionality of each wardrobe item. However, not everything is easy here. For example, the women's shirt was even differently crocheted in each of the three ethnic groups - anatri, anatenchi and tourists. And the set of items of the wardrobe, too, was different in each case. This is especially noticeable in the patterns of embroideries, compositions, manufacturing techniques. Yes, and they wore them in slightly different ways. Moreover, the Chuvash national costume differs not only by sex, but also by age. And, naturally, for the season.

The oldest clothes that you can admire in museums are not too old - they were worn at the end of the seventeenth century. Unfortunately, the earlier Chuvash folk costume for study is no longer available. What do we see in clothes a little over three hundred years ago? Almost all shirts are cut out in an old fashion - a tunic. This is the simplest and most economical way, when the canvas bends in the shoulders so that the back and front of the shirts are made from the same cloth. Further the construction is constructed as follows: lateral wedges, a cutout for the gate, sleeves with a gusset (this is a wedge sewn by the armpit into the armhole for greater freedom in movements). Quite a difficult cut, by the way, for those times. In the variants, the Chuvash folk costume does not differ much: the cut-off or solid one, the collar shape (you can see both standing and turn-down, and the complete absence of the collar), the coquette is the cutting part in front.

For men

In olden times, the men's shirts of the Chuvashes from the upper Volga were long and wide, right up to their knees. They were also cut out in a tunic, and the thoracic incision was on the side - on the right or on the left. The collar did not have such a shirt.

Male Chuvash national costume is characterized by small, but important distinctive details. The thoracic section of the shirt was tied with braid, and embroidered around, and the richer it was, the more festive. The ends of the sleeves and hem were also decorated. Everyday clothes were often not decorated at all.

The costume of the Chuvash people was intended not only for work and holidays. For example, white men's shirts were traditional and compulsory for everyone, since it was intended for pagan worship. Here the differences were only as a canvas: for the rich - thinner, for the poor - more steep.

The shirts were worn under the waistband. It is interesting to observe how the cut was modified depending on the development of technological progress. As soon as wide purchasing fabrics appeared, the Chuvash men's suit acquired round armholes, lost gussets, a collar became mandatory. In the cool evenings in the summer, the Chuvashes were adorned in a light canvas snow white caftan and empty of blue or black cloth. The smell was provided from right to left, often there was a fitted back with assemblies.

Festive shoots are richly decorated on the chest, collar, the edge of each floor and behind - a triangle. In addition to embroidery, other techniques were also used - silk applications, for example. Sometimes the scooters were cut out straight, they were necessarily white, they had to be girded with very beautiful woven belts. Such in the old days were worn by priests on sacrifices. And then began to wear and simple elderly men. Here is a Chuvash male suit, the photo can be seen below.

In the cold

Chuvash men in the autumn wore long, below the knees, caftans of thick cloth, which had a large turndown collar and flaps under the sash. And in the winter there appeared large sheepskin coats - yellow or black. They were very long, at the waist numerous assemblies or creases, and the fur trim was on the collar and along the sleeves. By the way, the more assemblies and folds, the fur coat was considered richer. And the best of them were hemmed over the sleeves, pockets, collar and the edges of the floor - most often black. On the rim there were stilts, morocco or a good expensive cloth. On the road, on top of a fur coat or a caftan, in case of bad weather, they put on a chapan, raincoat or epanchu made of very dense cloth, which were spun and straight to the ankles, with a huge collar and a very deep smell. Wear raincoats either unbuttoned, or under a sash.

The female costume looked a little different, although it was the same type. Simply, there were more variations, and the character of the ornaments was radically different. Women from the upper Volga region had strictly white fur-trees and black caftans, similar to a robe. And the grass-roots chuvashi wore cloth caftans, the fur boots were fastened to one hook at the waist. The white color was generously decorated with colored strips of fabric along the floors and on the collar, along the pockets. And they had much more embroidery on their winter clothes. Sleeves, pockets were cheerfully embroidered, also embroidered waistline was emphasized.

Chuvash women's costume, which was intended for weddings and holidays, was especially richly decorated - here even a silver or gold galloon came into play. Shubore on the top and fully sleeves - from red satin, and the whole bottom - from black. On caftans for women of young age there was especially soft and thin cloth - green or black, with fabric colored strips or with embroidery on the chest. Working clothes were shorter and more often dark brown. Lower-class chuvash people loved blue and black at holidays, and riding horses - white and yellow. Winter women's fur coats preferred to sew from black sheepskin, with numerous (up to ninety pieces!) Assemblies at the waist.

Ornaments

Embroidery in Chuvashes also differed geographically: the grass-roots loved polychrome, dense, and the top embroidered jewelry. The first in the patterns were dominated by embroidered medallions, diamond-shaped figures throughout the thoracic section of the shirt, and the latter decorated their outfit with removable shoulder pads made of richly and thinly embroidered ribbons. Rosette, rhombus, circle - in many peoples these patterns symbolized the sun. Chuvashi also almost always used them.

Sleeves, back part and hem were decorated with burgundy strips of braid, inside of which was embroidery. Lace was also often sewn on the hem, and slightly overlapped on the fabric with an embroidered pattern. Ornaments were chosen geometric, in which one could observe the ancient idea of the picture of the world. Chuvash women's national costume is filled with symbols. The world tree, eight-pointed star and many other images on old embroideries can tell a lot about the interrelations, borrowings and preferences of ancient peoples. Show how the Chuvash costume looked, photo. Female and male, of course, had differences.

Female festive look is very attire. The underwear was ornamented much more modestly: two rhombuses or an inclined strip on the undershirt, rather, served as an amulet than an ornament, despite the fact that the complex of the Chuvash costume assumes it as its main element. All the rest of the outfit was subordinated to her both by the color pattern and by the composition of the ornaments. Dress over the shirt worn necessarily with an apron - brightly decorated with lace, stripe and embroidery.

Women at the holiday are smart - like dolls in Chuvash suits. And each outfit is complemented by a patterned or embroidered belt. By the way, before they were tied at the same time for three: one for the dress, then for the dressing, and the last - for the apron. And all tied on the side, dropping the long ends down, where they ended with colored pompoms. But in groups of anatenchi and anatri, women always wore only one belt. This is how their Chuvash national costume looked, the photo can be seen in the article.

Footwear

The most basic kind of footwear for three, and even four seasons were both for women and for men ordinary bast shoes. Each nation had its own way of weaving this environmentally friendly, comfortable and lightweight shoe. Chuvashi wore male bast shoes from seven skins, where the head was relatively small, and the sides are rather low. But women woven exquisitely and carefully. Strips of bast were made thinner, narrower, and therefore required a larger number of skins - they were nine or twelve. In addition, the riding chuvashi next to the head missed a thin rope, so it was easy to distinguish them from the male.

Also there are women's bast shoes in the museum of a very whimsical weaving. Were wearing such shoes and with black, heavily wounded gizmos, on top of which two-meter arms were wound, and with cloth stockings. Great skill required and wrapping of the anuchi, and braiding them with oborami, time it took a lot. Therefore, often with laptees wore cloth leggings, wear them faster. And when winter came, it was impossible to do without felt boots. Although in ancient times, not all Chuvash could afford them. At the end of the nineteenth century, a tradition was formed to give boots for the son to his son from leather, and daughters - the same shoes. Chuvash from the upper Volga River were very fond of code boots, in which short and very hard tops were collected accordion. But such shoes were worn extremely rarely and extremely cautious.

Hats

In the old days, all the headgear of the women of Chuvashia was divided into two groups - caps and covers. The latter include surpana (a headband with a sling), a handkerchief with a bandage and a turban. All these things are for married women, including the bride's veil. Decorated with surpans in each group with their own specifics. Lower-necked chuvashians wore a very long surpana - two and a half meters, which completely covered the head. The middle of it was made of white linen, and the endings are richly embroidered or decorated with patterned strips, pendants, ribbons, buns or laces. Patterns on surpans are basically geometric - in the form of squares, rhombuses, crosses. Sealed by a surf at the grass-roots chuvash with a special head bandage.

In anatenchi, the surpans were shorter, the decorations were also narrower - the same woven cumaceous strips, white lace and embroidery. But this headgear was worn differently, by means of a bandage maslak. The riding dudes of the surpans were almost short - up to one and a half meters, and their thin linen was decorated with bilateral embroidery, the geometrical ornament of which was placed in tiers. At the ends of the surpana was a fringe and a multicolored bead. Headband is very different in groups. Wide and with massive patterns in anatenchi and anatri, and narrow with small embroidered patterns in viryal. Ornaments on the maslamaks included and individual stylized images of leaves, trees, flowers, figures of birds, horses, dragons, sometimes you can see the whole picture of the creation of the world through the eyes of the ancients. It is in the ornaments that the Chuvash costume is unique. Coloring and ornaments usually do not repeat even in two equally cut out clothes.

Decoration as a charm

In the women's attire there were also loincloth and waist jewelery embroidered with silk and woolen threads, beads, strips, fringe. The latter exclusively enriched any fragment of the dress, as the whole costume was animated in motion. The national costume of the chuvash will not be complete without a headdress made of beads, coins and small shells of cowry. In these ornaments, you can see the woman's belonging, her age, her social status, all her notions of beauty that her forefathers have been building for centuries. There are clearly visible traces of the people's world outlook. The main function of jewelry until the very last time is their protective, magical purpose - to protect the owner from evil spirits and many dangers.

The most complete set of jewelry chuvashov show at the holidays and weddings. Wedding dress, for example, weighs along with decorations about a pood (sixteen kilograms). The technique of sewing beads in ancient Chuvashia was simply brilliant: as a whole, the patterns on the headdress of the girl (tuhya) looked, where the organically combined was almost incompatible: beads, silver coins, precious metals and stones. No less interesting and headgear for women (hushpu). What else was heavy in a women's suit? Yes everything: garments chest, nasal, long embroidered bandage, pendants on it, bracelets, rings, waist-hangers, a purse on the belt, there also hanging a mirror in a metal frame ... It's hard to carry. But it's beautiful!

Wedding Apparel

The bridegroom was dressed for the wedding in a beautifully embroidered shirt, which the bride had prepared for him, a cloth blue caftan with a sash, behind which was a whip, boots, a sack hat and black gloves. Horse Chuvash on kaftan wore a special mantle - a net of beads, decorated with shells at the edges, and the collar of the caftan and its front edges were trimmed with a bum. Both the groom and his friends were gifted by the bride with embroidered towels, which they either tied around their waists, or were thrown over their shoulders.

The bride, as already mentioned, carried a pood. A richly embroidered shirt, a decorated fur coat, a cloth outfit, boots or leather boots with stockings, and the rest - decorations. And her dresses during the wedding ceremony changed from girlish to female, but did not become easier. Very beautiful were at the wedding three more people: a toastmaster (leader), an older friend and a matchmaker.

The wedding gown of my friends was really impressive. Snow-white canvas, carved on the principle of a robe, long, straight, without fasteners. White color was considered sacred, he was very anxious about. But the caftan of the leader of the wedding was already decorated with embroideries and strips of silk fabrics or ribbons. Matchmaker over his richly embroidered caftan was wrapped in handmade a huge scarf - silk with patterns or simply embroidered embroideries. This is a sign that everyone understood, her special position at this celebration. Bright ornaments of wedding objects - bedspreads, scarves, a back dress of the groom, a dance special scarf, coverlets for a chiryas with beer - all this added color and solemnity to the event.

Sign function

Clothes were for the Chuvashes not just a defense against weather phenomena. She could tell a lot about the person and the event in which he participates. We could see the marital status, the age, the property status, and even the ritual purpose of this garment-it was wedding or prepared for religious rituals. First of all, the sign was manifested in decorations and headdresses. Sourpan, hushpu or maslak could only wear married women. The bride, on a special ceremony, put on her first surpana. But the girls wore tuhyu, of which women could only nostalgically sigh sometimes. Only young women and girls could wear neck ornaments and ear pendants, as well as ornaments with ribbons. Common ornaments for women and girls were, but these are isolated cases.

Chuvash folk tradition in clothes is a real treasury of the richest spiritual and material culture of remote ages. Millennial traditions have focused on the temporary links of peoples, tribes, cultures of different regions of Europe and Asia, and the folk costume helps to discover and trace these connections by borrowing and influencing. It is clear that the whole Chuvash costume is connected much more with the agricultural, rather than nomadic way. It is a cultural monument that was created in different historical circumstances, generating and developing both cosmogonic views and purely aesthetic views according to the socio-economic, natural, cultural conditions that dominated the region.

The ancient structure of the Chuvash costume contains in itself all cosmogonic worldviews, in them the model of the world with all luminaries, otherworldly and local worlds is displayed. But the social life developed, the understanding of the world changed, the outlook expanded, which was the reason why it was already impossible to recall the meaning of all elements of the costume in a subtle way. Now all three types of Chuvash suits are used in amateur performances, in folk professional art, in stage and exhibition activities.

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