Gradation is the process of constructing patterns of different sizes

Everyone likes to dress beautifully and strive to make the appearance correspond to the new fashion trends. But few people think that not everything depends on the style and color. It is important how the clothes "sit" on the figure. Correct cut, matching the size - a guarantee of getting the perfect dress when sewing. Gradation is used for this purpose. This is a change in the basic patterns for constructing different and more accurate patterns.

Grading methods

To date, technical duplication of patterns is carried out in three ways: ray, grouping and proportionally-calculated.

The beam method is based on the fact that straight lines originating from the focus (a certain point) are drawn through the structural points. Then they retreat from the contour of the part to a certain distance and note the magnitude of the increments. United new points form a new template. In this way gradation is carried out. This is the simplest way, but also the most inaccurate. The result largely depends on the choice of the starting point - the focus, the different position of which changes the direction of the rays. As a result, the gradation of the patterns turns out to be distorted. This method is best suited for modeling some parts of corsetry and headgear.

Getting the patterns by grouping is based on combining two sets (extreme and medium sizes). When constructing the same design constructive main points must be connected by straight lines, which, in turn, are divided into several segments. Their number corresponds to the number of sizes for which the gradation is used. This is the most acceptable option for complex models.

The proportional-calculation method is the most common method for designing. With it, the movement of the structural points of the patterns takes place along lines horizontally and vertically, and in accordance with the variation of the patterns.

The increment values are determined for each design point, determining its position relative to the zero axes. The location of the main parts is as follows:

- on the shelf (A), the vertical line is located along the breast line, the horizontal line is under the armhole line, on the chest or waist line;

- the vertical line on the back (B) coincides with the middle line or divides it in half, horizontal - similar to the shelf;

- on the sleeve (C), the vertical line is located along the middle line, horizontal line - in several places.

Automated grading is the application of the latest technologies

Now, thanks to modern technologies, there is no longer a manual design of clothes. A new gradation of patterns of clothing allows you to get a quality design material, fully consistent with the required level. Thus, such conditions as proportions, landing, proportionality, correspond to the initial basic size. With the help of the CAD system (automated design), the construction of patterns, modeling. Therefore, there was a need for experts in designing clothes that perfectly master the latest computer technologies. Progress does not stand still. 3D modeling is in full swing. What awaits us in the future? Perhaps soon there will be no need for ordinary drawings performed on the plane, they will be voluminous. And the very concept of "fashion" will move to another, modern level.