Climbing roses: planting and care in Siberia

Queen of gardens and parks rose long and deservedly loved by flower growers all over the world. This flower is also decorated by Russian landscapes. Its wiry forms are ideal for vertical landscaping. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips presented in the article), correctly implemented, as well as recommendations for disease control will help you cope with this task.

The choice of a variety must be informed

Before engaging in the cultivation of roses, it is necessary to get acquainted with the varieties. Do not rush with the purchase. After all, you can buy seedlings and through the Internet, and this greatly expands the range and gives you the opportunity to make a good choice. Learn the varieties, talk with the rose growers on the forums, read the relevant blogs. With live communication with the flower growers you can learn a lot of valuable information. Beginners do not even always know what requirements must meet the plants.

Often in the photographs in the catalogs of shops can only see the flower. Its smell, bush shape, capriciousness in care or unpretentiousness - all this is very important. How long does it continue blooming, how friendly is it, do not burn flowers, how do they look after flowering? Such information is not always available from the seller.

If the photo shows a single flower, but does not show the entire bush, it can mean that the plant is not distinguished by abundant flowering or the bush is not able to brag of the decorative shape.

At amateur gardeners who are just beginning to master this plant, at first there are always many questions, for example: "Is it possible to grow roses in Siberia in the open field?" Certainly, it is possible. And this is not so difficult as it might seem at first glance. The territory is huge, but severe frosts happen everywhere.

Difficulties in growing roses in a harsh climate

Beginners can be advised to pay attention to cold-resistant varieties. But the cultivation of roses in Siberia in a greenhouse is possible even in the northernmost regions.

In order for the initiative to succeed, and the noble plant has been blossomed, you need to know and follow certain rules. If they are learned, and they are not at all complicated, it will not disappoint, and, perhaps, even become a favorite hobby of planting roses in Siberia. The terms of the beginning and the end of the garden works are related to the temperature of the surrounding air and the degree of warmth of the earth. Since in recent years the climate is unstable, it adds new questions to care for a delicate flower.

In most of them, they all agree on the timing of planting, in caring for a happy winter, in the right fertilizer, ensuring a long and abundant flowering, and in combating diseases. As for such varieties as Rambler or Clymer, and these are quite common, unpretentious and well-cultivated climbing roses, planting and care in Siberia of these species is not difficult. However, their cultivation is accompanied by other - pleasant concerns, such as decorating them in the landscape.

Where to Plant

They are photophilous. The planting of roses in Siberia in autumn should be carried out taking into account this feature. By the way, it is noticed that if the bushes provide proper care - watering, feeding, etc., then they feel great and bloom even in the penumbra.

If you want to decorate the house wall with plants, then roses are not the most suitable choice. Near the house the risk of occurrence of undesirable changes of temperatures is great. On the one hand - the cold air of the street, on the other - the warm wall of the house. Probable thawing of snow or deposits of snowdrifts, icing in periods of thaws. Such contrasts are disastrous for delicate plants. Even a good illumination of the southern wall may not save the situation. Near the walls of roses in general it is not necessary to plant. For them, a more well-lit place with penumbra in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable. If you really want to decorate the house, then plant shrubs at a distance of not less than a meter from the southern wall.

Soil preparation

Pour a pit about 40x40x40 cm, put a complex fertilizer on the bottom . Roses are very sensitive to the quality of the soil. If it is clayey, fan it, adding sand, wood ash, humus, a little peat and leafy soil. If the soil is more sandy, then manure, humus and leafy soil. These components will make it sufficiently nutritious and moderately weighty.

Planting roses in Siberia - it's not tricky, and if you have a plant grown not in rootstock, but root-roots, then you can not be afraid that in the spring instead of a cultivar you will have a well-overhung bush of wild hips on the site. Try to choose the root-own varieties, and in any case deepen the root collar by at least 5 cm. It is also not recommended to deepen the deepening, since from the place of inoculation, the rose will release new roots, and on the roots of the graft, it will grow much weaker.

Half or a third of the prepared soil mixture should be placed on the bottom of the pit, under the roots. Then it is necessary to properly moisten the substrate by pouring water into the pit. Roots before planting powder ash and carefully and evenly place in the pit. Put the rest of the earth on the roots from above, trying to tamp well, so that there are no large voids left between them. Again, pour abundantly.

How to save seedlings?

Autumn is more suitable for planting and transplanting an adult rose. Planting and leaving in Siberia in spring is the best time for plants derived from cuttings, as well as for roses sent by mail and wintered in a cold house.

You can begin garden work immediately after the snow falls, when the shovel easily enters the ground. This usually happens in April. Old bushes can be replanted in the spring, but this is less advisable than in the autumn - long-term addiction to a new place can adversely affect the flowering, and you think that the bush degenerated or the place was chosen inappropriate. But the cuttings in the spring always work out perfectly. Branches prepare autumn. Cut long shoots, bring home and disinfect in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Keep them in the basement in a box of sand. If there is no basement, then put in the refrigerator, in the compartment for fresh vegetables. To prevent the shoots from drying, wrap them in a damp cloth, and then in polyethylene. In the spring they will be fresh and green.

Reproduction by cuttings

In April, when the snow comes down, remove the thin upper parts of the shoots, cut the branches into 10-15 cm cuttings with buds on each, soak for a day in water with potassium permanganate and you can plant. To get a guaranteed result, use the corn root.

That the spring frosts did not destroy plants, plant them on a sunny, sheltered place from the wind with loose fertile soil. Each shank is covered with a plastic bottle: cut the bottom, and use the top part with a lid as a mini-greenhouse. Make sure that the earth is constantly wet. In a month, you can start airing bottles of greenhouse, removing the covers for a while. This will gradually accustom the plants to a natural atmosphere. Do this very carefully. For the formation of roots, heat, constant temperature, high humidity and lack of movement are needed. Accustomed to such conditions and being in the fresh air, the effeminate plant can cope with the complex adaptation and die.

It is believed that the appearance of the first leaves testifies to the rooting that took place. Do not rush to rejoice. It is possible to remove the bottles only after a couple of months. In addition, this whole year you will have to carefully take care of young plants - to shade from the scorching sun, fertilize, prevent the drying of the soil or stagnation of water, protect from frost.

Are there winter hardy climbing roses? Planting and leaving in Siberia of many varieties of ramblers and clayings does not cause special difficulties, since they are characterized as unpretentious and winter-hardy. If you are a beginner, then choose a cultivar cultivated in a local nursery.

Rambler's

It must be said that the cultivation of roses in Siberia from cuttings is best accomplished with ramblers. The most well-proven in the severe climate conditions are such varieties as "Doriti Perkins", "Bobby Jays" and "Excelsa". Cuttings can be practiced throughout the summer. For cuttings, twigs from the third quarter of the whip are collected, the one that is nearer the end. The sticks are the size of a pencil. Rooting in the greenhouse occurs within a month.

The spreadsheets are very convenient plants for decorating small areas. Their lashes grow to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They are twisted around the support clockwise, trying to make the branch lie horizontally. This method stimulates the growth of new flower-bearing shoots of the rose. Planting and care in Siberia of the "rambler" variety is suitable for beginner gardeners. His flowers are small, terry, collected in lush inflorescences, which very densely cover the entire bush. Blooming, though only once, but very abundant, lasts almost a whole month. In order for the flowers to decorate your garden longer, with the beginning of flowering, stop feeding and watch the moistening of the soil under the bush.

Variety with fragrant flowers

Many gardeners appreciate musk roses. Planting and care in Siberia of this variety will be successful if you choose for them a place with loose neutral soil, well protected from cold winds and sufficiently lit. Traditional musk roses exude a strong aroma of ambergris. It does not come from the petals, as it happens with other varieties, but from the stamens, so even the wilted flowers continue to smell. However, they do not always have such a vivid scent. Many hybrids are more decorative than old varieties, but devoid of smell. Musk roses produce flexible whips up to 2.5 meters in length. This allows you to use them for the design of arbors and arches. The best grades are "Mozart" and "Ballerina".

Miniature Climbing Rose

Another charming sample of climbing roses is the "pirouette" variety. As its branches do not grow more than a meter and a half, it is often planted as a saber - a single bush. Small flowers of slightly apricot hue are collected in a brush. Revealed very amicably and so abundantly that behind them there is no visible foliage. Flowering is continuous. The aroma is tender, pleasant, sweet, although weak. "Pirouette", practically does not suffer from powdery mildew and black spot, which often overcomes roses. Planting and care in Siberia for this variety is also convenient because it is cold-resistant. A small shelter, nevertheless, is still necessary.

Climbers

It is, you can say, monumental climbing roses. Planting and nursing in Siberia for this variety can be complicated by difficulties with shelter. Compared with ramblers, in which the whip reaches a five-meter length, the claymbers are simply babies. Their shoots do not outgrow the 2-meter mark. However, they are very thick and do not bend as easily as miniature ramblers. It is very difficult to wind such a shoot around a pillar or arch. If you start the branch vertically upwards, it will bloom only at the upper end. Flowers are very abundant if the branch is horizontal. In the flower garden they have a fan on fences, bars. Thus, the growth of new flowering shoots is stimulated. If you want roses to bloom as long as possible, then with the fastening of buds stop feeding, and in the dry weather, water every day. And blossom climes are luxurious! Large fragrant flowers adorn the bush for almost a month, and for repair ones - twice a season. The best varieties are "Elf", "Roseanna", "Pink Cloud" and "Pierre de Ronsard".

Shelter for the winter

How to keep the roses in Siberia in winter? Planting and care, watering and weeding, feeding and pest control - everything that you did in the spring, in the summer and in the fall, can be in vain, and the next year you'll have to start all over again, including searching for a good bush if your bush has beaten frost.

They cover the roses after the first frost, on a dry day. This is important, because the shelter of wet bushes will create an unfavorable microclimate and the development of fungal infections. Shoots are removed from the supports and neatly laid out on the ground. If you bend the thick branches of the climber, then use the forks to dig the ground. So it will be easier to collapse the bush. Do not need to spread it on the ground very low. Let him rise a little. Your goal is to dress the plants in a fur coat. Very good in severe winters, non-woven materials such as lutrasil have proven themselves. Take the thickest one and fold it into several layers. Bushes should be covered with a blanket, not separate fragments. On the perimeter, press bricks.

Opening

Where does the growing of roses begin in Siberia? Spring is the time when they buy new ones and open old bushes. The shelter should be removed in several stages. First aired, then opened, increasing the time, and, finally, completely removed. This is done in order to accustom flowers to new conditions. After removing the covering material, scan the whips and cut the damaged or dead to a healthy tissue. At this time it is very convenient to loosen the earth around the rose and select the roots of weed grass.

Fertilizers

Do they require any special fertilizing of roses in Siberia? Planting and nursing in this region are somewhat more labor-intensive than in Europe, but this is due only to protection from winter freezing. In the rest all the same. In spring plants need a large amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Roses are very dependent on the microbiological composition of the soil and are sensitive to the lack of this or that element. As for the acidity, the slightly acidic (pH 5.6) will be just right for them. Since mid-July, nitrogen fertilizing, increasing the growth of shoots, should be discontinued. Otherwise, by winter, there will be many young, fragile shoots on the bushes that will not survive the difficult winter - the affected tissues of young shoots will become a hotbed of infections, which can provoke the death of the whole plant.

If there is an opportunity to feed a rose with manure, then do it in the spring, and it will repay you with beautiful growth and flowering. Dibble manure and mullein are the best fertilizers for roses. Dung is the supplier of nitrogen, and the necessary potassium and phosphorus are in the wood ashes. In addition, for proper growth and development, plants need calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese and copper. Therefore, do not neglect the complex mineral fertilizers.

In September, it is recommended to make the last time under the bushes superphosphate or potassium nitrate.

Diseases and pests

It's time to find out what the roses are for. Planting and nursing of these delicate plants in Siberia is not very difficult, but the harsh climate weakens the immune properties of roses, and they can begin to ache. The most common diseases of climbing roses are black spotting and powdery mildew.

Black spotting

This trouble is not as terrible as it seems, although it also spoils the appearance of bushes. Occurs most often in the second half of the summer. The leaves are covered with black spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It starts from the bottom of the bush and gradually rises. In severe cases, the entire foliage falls completely. At the onset of the disease, it is enough to cut off the affected leaves and burn them, and sprinkle the bush with a weak solution of the mullein (20 parts of water for one part of the mullein). Two or three procedures are enough. If the mullein can not be found, buy in the store drugs containing penconazole, triazole or mancoceb. This can be "Topaz", "Profit", "Skor" or "Ridomil Gold".

Powdery mildew

The disease more often affects roses growing in the greenhouse. In climbing roses, it arises as a consequence of getting out as a result of too much watering in cool weather. The young parts are amazed. They are covered with a white mealy coating. Sprinkling of bushes with infusion of wood ash in this case is very effective. First you need to remove the affected leaves, buds and shoots, cutting them to a healthy tissue. This all needs to be burned, so that the pathogenic microflora does not resume activity. Cleaned bushes should be sprinkled with a solution of ash, and after two hours rinse with clean water. In severe lesions, preparations containing triazole - "Skor" and "Topaz" are used.