Until recently, many gardeners believed that growing roses in Siberia - this is an empty occupation, requiring a lot of knowledge and hassle. However, in recent years, planting roses has become a mass character, gardeners-experimenters have learned from personal experience that some varieties very well tolerate Siberian winters. Also there was a lot of information on growing these beauties in the middle band, and grown roses in Siberia are even ripening better than in warmer regions. True, there are years when the summer is rainy, and the second wave of flowering is during the period of preparation of bushes for wintering, all buds need to be cut off for this. This need is due to the fact that the seedlings were able to gain strength, the root system was strengthened, and frost did not affect the plants. In general, to save bushes of roses with the help of winter shelter is half the success. No less important is the observance of the terms when to open roses. After all, under the shelter of delicate flowers can vypret, bend, get fungal diseases.
To preserve roses in winter from freezing, their root system is bored or sprinkled with humus, a frame made of wooden rails around the bushes, and lapnik or covering material is attached. In winter, snow piles protect the bushes from frosts well, but in the spring, when roses can not be opened yet, under snowdrifts they can deteriorate, it is necessary to make ventilation for the influx of air to the places of shelter, because it is at this time that buds begin to wake up. This must be done on sunny days, when the air temperature has positive values, the snow is slightly shoveled, but the shelter should not be removed. Depending on the weather (spring can be protracted), from mid-March to mid-April - the best period when you open roses. For this, the snow is completely thrown away, the covering material can be removed for the daytime, and in the evening, if strong frosts are expected, it is necessary to return to the bushes. With minor minus temperatures the plants cope, and at a mark below minus 8 -10 degrees can freeze. In early April, when it is necessary to tear off the roses, humus, which is poured around the flowers, it is necessary to slip off so that the root system does not stick out. It is necessary to carry out fertilizing with mineral fertilizers or infusion of mullein. After removing the cover, the branches should be shortened, in spite of the fact that they have been cut off since the autumn. Blackened shoots should be cut completely to the place where the branch is green, and if they are black to the ground, then it is necessary to cut out completely. It may seem that the bush is dead, but you should not rush to uproot it. To save the plant, it is necessary to dilute the root stimulation agent (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin or others) in the proportions indicated on the package. At least one bucket of the solution should be poured on the bush and not touch at least a month. The root system will first give off weak shoots, and then with the help of fertilizing they will get stronger, but there can be no violent flowering. Now, the main thing is to prepare the bush for the winter, so that next year he will be pleased with the magnificence of his flowers. In general, any experience comes with practice, and if you have never grown roses, get to the start the most not whimsical variety, consult the seller, find out the peculiarities of its cultivation, ask when to open roses, and further on your own experience will give these recommendations to others Newcomers.