HobbyNeedlework

The seam is manual. Manual stitching. Manual decorative seam

The details of the clothes are joined together by means of seams. A needle is used for this. With its help on the fabric or other material, thread stitches are made, their complete set forms a seam.

Before the invention of sewing machines, all work was done manually. At home and in handicraft production, such practice exists even now. The seam hand is indispensable and at the initial stage of creating models of clothing. Different sewing techniques are used for decorative fabric finishing.

Principles of sewing

A seam joint is formed by interweaving one or more threads in a certain sequence. It is expedient to fasten the individual elements of the patterns at the initial stage temporarily. This connection is usually done manually. After fitting and final finishing, the seam is manually replaced with a machine stitch.

Depending on the ultimate goal, the garment details can be combined in various ways. Seams in this case will differ significantly in stitch density, strength, and so on.

In some cases, the first place is not the quality of the connection, but the decorative properties of the laying of threads on the front surface. Such seams are called decorative and they serve to finish the finished product.

The finished movement of the needle with the thread forms a stitch on the material. The sequence of such actions is called a line. The joining of a piece of material, made in one or several lines, forms a seam.

Regardless of the technique, the stitches on the front and the underside should be laid flat, at the same distance from each other, and have a uniform thread tension.

Types of manual connections

For the temporary connection of parts and markings during fitting, a slip, cushioning and transfer suture is used. The so-called silks are used to transfer the contour lines from one symmetrical part of the article to the other.

The edges of the material are treated with a round seam. It is convenient to use for preparing frills, flounces and other details. A manual stitch-line resembling a machine stitch is called stitch. It is used for permanent fastening of clothing items.

Marking the seam is performed, as well as the stitch, but not with this density. The distance between adjacent stitches is equal to half their length. To prevent "shedding" of the edges of the fabric, they are treated with a suture seam. It can be oblique, cross-shaped or looped in technique.

The hemming seam is used to treat tucked edges. According to the technique of execution, it can be simple (open), hidden or figured.

Static connections

Prior to the invention of sewing machines, a manual seam was used to attach parts of clothing. The difference between the offset connection and the static one is that the needle does not move forward, but with each new injection it comes back.

Stitches in this case are formed not in turns, then on the front, then on the back surface, but cross over. This provides increased strength and elasticity of the joint.

From the front side stitches are short, at the same distance from each other. At the same time, on the wrong side, they are three times longer, go for each other, have no gaps, and form a solid line.

The so-called machine-made manual seam, or "stitch", is particularly strong. With a qualitative execution, there is a doubt that it is done manually. Stitches on the front of one size without lumens, on the wrong side they go for each other and twice as long.

Technique for making stitches

These seams are also called the "back needle". And this is justified, because with each exit to the front part, it goes back one step. The distance can be equal to half the purl stitch or one third of it. Depending on the purpose of the connection, the gap can be from 1 to 7 mm.

The seam runs from right to left. The needle is inserted from the top down, is carried under the cloth and is removed to the front part with the formation of the necessary length from the inside of the stitch. Then she goes back one step. The injection is made again in the first hole, after the cycle is repeated both from the wrong side and on the front. In this case, a manual stitch "stitch" is formed.

If, after drawing the thread to the front part, a repeated injection is made not in the first hole, but in the middle between the inlet and exit of the needle, then such a manual stitch is called "for a needle". It does not form a solid line of stitches on the front, not as sturdy as the "stitch", but it is faster.

Finishing seams

In some cases, when you install clothing items or fix certain parts of it on the surface, a nice looking pattern is formed. Such a compound is called finishing.

For hemming knitwear and sewing thick non-friable fabrics use a handmade decorative seam "goat", which forms a simple cross-shaped pattern.

The "nun's" joint trim the edges of the pockets, cuts and creases. Such fasteners are made in the form of an equilateral triangle. Stitched stitches in the form of branches and chains are characteristic for the stitch seam and the "herringbone" connection. They are used to sew the edges of the material.

Such types of finishes can be used for attaching clothing parts, and used separately, only to give the finished product decorative distinctive features.

Embroidery

Mass factory production of clothes pushed manual sewing to the distant plan. Only genuine connoisseurs of original clothing or artistic embroidery are serious about this craft. Sometimes the imagination of such tailors is amazing, when there are simply unique things with decorative laces decorated with embroidery, slots, hinges and pockets.

A monastic sister and a handmade seam for dressing clergymen's attire is a must. Special care and accuracy is required when preparing the episcopal vestments. Handmade embroidered icons are a unique technique that requires both perseverance, special skills, and purity of thoughts.

A special place is occupied by gold and silk embroidery, as well as carpet and three-dimensional technique. Surprising in beauty work, decorated with paillettes, mirrors, beads and gold. Cross-stitch embroidery has been known since antiquity, it was adorned with hand-made paintings, decorative items, and clothing.

A hand-made decorative seam is a series of flat stitches on the fabric. In the process of work, they completely fill the contour of the applied decorative pattern. In this technique, various stitches are used: "Vladimir", "stalk", "knot", "narrow glaze roller", "loop fastener" and others. There are several types of smooth surface: artistic color, white, satin, Chinese, Japanese, Russian Alexandrovsky and Mstersky.

Manual furrier suture

It is used for joining parts of fur skins and for their minor repairs. For sewing, needles and threads are used in accordance with the thickness of the skin layer of the skin. The thicker and longer the fur, the diameter of the thread and the size of the needle are greater. To connect thin-meshed skins, the stitch frequency should increase.

The seam is executed from right to left. At the end of the thread the knot is not made, it is fastened by several stitches in one place. Before you start working, the pile should be laid in such a way that it does not interfere with sewing. For this, the skins are folded inside the fur. Separate hairs are filled with a needle on the front side.

A manual furrier's seam is made by moving the needle from itself. Two skins are pierced at once, the thread is stretched, thrown across the edge and reintroduced into the same hole. After tight tightening of the thread, the loop is tightened. The needle is thrown again through the edge, and the process is repeated with the second hole.

Secrets of Excellence

The manual seam begins by drawing the needle thread into the eyelet. To ensure that she was obedient in her work, she was not confused or twisted, she should be cut off from the reel after she was vdevaniya.

Biting off the thread spoils the teeth and does not look professional at all. It is better to make a neat cut with sharp scissors not across it, but at an angle, then it will be easier to get into the eye.

The knot at the end of the thread is better not to knit, but to be fixed by several reverse stitches. An experienced craftsman knows that any seal on the fabric during ironing can be imprinted on the surface or will be translucent.

It is inconvenient to sew with a long thread (more than 70 cm). In the old days, about the craftsmen who practiced this method, they talked like lazy girls who did not want to make excess traffic.

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