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Galvanizing the body of a car with your own hands

To protect the car body from corrosion, car owners use various methods. Some store cars in the garage and do not leave in winter, others wash it weekly, while others are treated with anti-corrosive materials. Unfortunately, to date, there is no single correct solution to prevent corrosion, but there is one method that can effectively resist the process of oxidation of metal - galvanizing the body of the car.

This technology is far from new and has long been used by some automakers. It is much more effective than all existing methods of fighting rust and can resist it for decades. We will talk about what the galvanizing of the car body is in this article. We will consider the existing methods of applying a protective coating in the factory and home conditions.

What is galvanization?

Galvanizing the body of a car is the process of coating it with a thin layer of zinc. This metal practically does not lend itself to corrosion and protects the structural elements not only from moisture, but also from other reactive substances. Automakers use galvanizing at the stage of assembling machines. It can be complete or partial. In the first case, the treatment gives in to all the body elements, both from the outside and from the inside. The second option involves zinc coating only those parts that most often suffer from interaction with an aggressive environment: the bottom, thresholds, wings, etc.

Methods of galvanizing

There are only three ways to apply a zinc layer on the body metal:

  • galvanic;
  • thermal;
  • cold.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Galvanic method

Galvanic zinc coating of the car body implies placing it (or its individual element) in a container with a certain electrolyte. The vessel body is connected to the positive electrode of the power source, and the processed element to the negative one. Deeply immersed in electrochemical processes, it is possible to describe technology in simple language in this way. Zinc particles in the electrolyte are accelerated by electricity and begin to move from the anode to the cathode, i.e. To the body, and cover it with a thin, but continuous layer. Galvanic galvanizing technology is rightly considered to be the most effective way of resisting corrosion, since the part is covered with a protective layer from all sides.

Thermal (thermodiffusion) method of galvanizing

The thermal method consists in placing the processed element in a bath with a hot zinc solution, where, under the influence of temperature, a thin layer of protection lays on the metal. Some car manufacturers practice the application of zinc to steel sheets, from which the body is made, even in the process of rolling it. This method is slightly inferior in efficiency galvanic, but also serves as an excellent protection against rust. The first to produce cars with hot galvanizing bodies began the Americans, but in a few years the technology has spread to Europe.

Method of cold application

This method is close to galvanic, but no capacity is required for it. Here everything happens with the help of a special electrode, the active composition of which includes zinc. It connects to the positive terminal of the power supply, and the processed element to the negative. When the electrode interacts with the part, the zinc particles under the influence of electricity pass from the cathode to the anode, covering it with a protective layer. Cold galvanizing the body of a car is most often used to handle its individual elements and is rarely used by automakers.

How to find out if your car is galvanized

Given that not all companies manufacturing cars use the listed protection technologies, it is not superfluous to find out whether your machine has passed such processing, and whether it is possible to hope that its metal is able to withstand corrosion. But how to determine the galvanizing of the car's body, if it is painted?

The simplest and most reliable way is to study the user manual. If the body has undergone such processing, in the document you will surely find the appropriate mark. The second way is to check the machine by the VIN-code. The received answer will contain information about whether the body was galvanized. Well, the last method is a visual inspection of the machine. If the body has damaged paintwork, and beneath them you will see a characteristic gray layer, you can be sure the car is galvanized. You can also inspect the bottom, fragmentarily removing dirt and anti-corrosion layer from it. It will not be superfluous to look at the floor of the cabin, having previously removed the carpet.

Galvanization of car bodies: a table of methods, brands and models

The table below shows the popular brands and models of cars with a galvanized body.

Galvanic Galvanizing

Thermal Galvanizing

"BMW"

"Audi"

"Mercedes Benz"

"Volvo"

"Honda" ("Accord", CR-V, "Legend", "Pilot")

"Ford" ("Escort", "Siera")

"Kia"

Chevrolet

"Hyundai"

"Opel" ("Astra", "Vectra")

"Cheri"

"Volkswagen"

"Seat"

"Porsche"

"Lada" ("Grant")

"Skoda" ("Octavia", "Fabia")

Is it possible to galvanize at home and that this will require

Galvanization of the body of the car with their own hands is quite possible, but it implies not a complete, but a partial coating of the protective layer of certain elements. These may be areas that are most prone to corrosion: underlays, thresholds, platforms under the feet of the driver and passengers, door cards, as well as places where the paintwork is damaged.

The home method of applying zinc protection is something between cold and galvanic zinc coating. But about this a little later. And now about what is required for this.

Necessary tools and tools:

  • latex gloves;
  • Chloride or zinc sulfate (soldering acid);
  • A piece of zinc;
  • Glass dish;
  • Car battery or charger;
  • A piece of clean rag (gauze);
  • sandpaper;
  • Degreaser (solvent);
  • Baking soda solution.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a ready-made solution of zinc salt, it can be prepared by yourself. To do this, take sulfuric or chloric acid and dissolve in it pieces of zinc in a proportion of 1: 0,4, i.е. For one liter of acid - 400 g. Metal.

This is done as follows. In glassware (glass, jar) pour the acid and immerse the zinc in it until they stop interacting. The reaction occurs in the form of dissolution of the metal with evolution of hydrogen. Therefore, be extremely careful: work in gloves and away from open heat sources. When the reaction stops, the solution can be considered ready. Filter it and drain the sediment. Now you can proceed to the immediate process.

We galvanize the body at home

Galvanization of the car body can be carried out only in areas previously cleaned from paint, dirt, dust, rust, process fluids. To do this, the treated area is sanded with sandpaper, then it is degreased and dried.

Now we need to assemble the device itself. For him, first of all, we need a power supply, giving out 12 V and 1 A at the output. Perfectly suitable battery or charger for it. Next you need to make a zinc electrode. This can be either a regular piece of zinc (a plate, a rod), or a body (glass) from a conventional alkaline battery. The latter option is preferable and much more convenient. The electrode should be wrapped in a rag in several layers and connect the positive terminal of the power supply to it. In this case, it is not allowed that the rag to which you are wrapping a zinc rod or plate is in contact with the terminal.

The negative wire from the power source is connected to the body of the machine. Further, all you need is to dip an improvised electrode into the solution and slowly drive it along the surface to be treated. During this process, the zinc particles will settle on the steel in a thin layer, creating a protective coating. If the work is properly done, the treated area will have a dense texture of light gray color.

At the end of the galvanizing process, the area is washed with a solution of edible salt and dried. In the future it can be covered with soil and painted.

Some useful tips

The treated area should be carefully cleaned and sanded with a fine sandpaper so that its surface does not have visible furrows.

Do not allow the positive electrode cable or the place of their connection to come into contact with the electrolyte.

Washing with a solution of soda or any other alkaline solution is mandatory. This is the only way to neutralize acid residues. Otherwise, relapse of corrosion processes is possible.

Periodically check the condition of the cloth on the electrode. In the course of the work, she will gradually burn up, so in a timely manner, rewind it.

Do all work on the street or in a well-ventilated area, observing the precautionary measures. Do not allow acid to penetrate the exposed skin and contact the released hydrogen with open heat sources.

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